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#1
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spare ... may take you up on that offer ..
![]() getting pretty cold here in the Pocono Mts. of PA ... snow is nice, but in a few months, i will be tired of it. :) ![]() how hard are the carbs to do on these motors? i have only fooled with single carbs on cars, tractors, 4 wheelers .. never messed with multiple carb setups before... |
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#2
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B, one thing that often overlooked is the small spaghetti tubes that run all over the block. there are check valves in the nipples and the tubes are bad about splitting and leaking, might want to give them a good looking over also. i think the worst thing you can do is not use a 2 stroke, from a weedeater to a 200 hp outboard. they love to run & drink gas. the only thing i have done to mine is a waterpump every year, but i use it 45 weekends out of a year.
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#3
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Like stated above already. Also when you do the water pump, do the whole pump with the base assembly. Many overlook the base, and this is a problematic area with letting water into the foot. On a MERC the oil injection is disater waiting to happen. I pondered keeping it on mine, but after some asking around I ditched it. The plastic crank gears are too prone to breaking after they get to be 10-12 years old. If you are gonna keep it, make sure the alarm system is working properly ESPESCIALLY the magnetic pick-up for the oil pump drive alarm. Look over the stator and power packs for signs of the potting material for damage. The potting material in them likes to get soft and runny over the years and expose the internal circuits.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#4
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Wow, that will keep you busy til spring.
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*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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#5
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randleman .. you are right . but better to do it in the garage than have a problem out on the water with 3 kids with me !!!!
i appreciate you guys telling me what to look for. the experience on this board is really great, especially when this is your first boat project. keep the comments coming!!!! |
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#6
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http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...key=SiteSearch
Click on the above link...look it over and for $3.49 it'll save ya a LOT of grief and $$$... Like Therm said, the gears that move the oil in that system are PLASTIC and WILL FAIL in time...when they do, as he said, you just TOASTED yer motor and everything else you did to it just went out the window...not to mention the problem you may encounter by being at sea far from the ramp W/ 3 KIDS when the motor goes "snap-crackle-POP!! Not having to mix oil in is a convenience, no doubt, but the little bottle above makes it a no-brainer and EASY to do...trust us on this one...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#7
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Just mt .02 but take the premix off...mix that sheet yoself!
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? |
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#8
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Hey B, just seen you been around for awhile. Sorry for teh late congrads !!. Welcome to the cult.
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#9
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lets start at the top
things to change spark plugs wires thermostats lower unit oil all the hoses you can change on the block, i would by 3 feet of heater hose and change the cross over and and other heater lines if you can replace the fuel lines on the block fuel filters primer buld water sepperator if you have one if you dont get one grease eveything spray the block with corrosion guard fill and check the tilt oil level thats a start
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love to fish |
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