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#1
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When you drilled into the intermediate spacer, did you drill deep enough to actually cut the bolts? Did the short bolts/nuts in the front and rear of the spacer come out? I believe there are 10 bolts, 6 long and 4 short. (As I recall, 2 of the short are studs in the power head with nuts.) If you did cut the bolts, and the short bolts/nuts are out, the power head should pull free of the spacer. The vertical holes in the intermediate spacer that the 6 long bolts go through into the block are tapered and has a much smaller inside diameter at the bolt head. This small I.D. is where the corrosion seizes the bolt shank causing the bolt head to break off. The I.D. of the tapered hole at top of the spacer where you drilled close to the block is about 1/3 larger and generally is not where the bolt seizes. I think your pictures are great but I can't tell from the pictures if the long broken bolts are actually cut. Since the tapered hole at the top of the spacer is a much larger I.D., you should be able to see if the bolts are cut. I don't know what type of drill bits you used, but what is recommended are "DeWalt Pilot Point Bits" in a 3/8" or 1/2" diameter. Pilot point bits have a different pointed end and don't tend to walk around like standard bits do. Also they have a hex shaft so they won't slip in the drill chuck. If you use a sawsall you will probably need to replace the spacer which makes for a longer job. I hope this helps!!!
Geek
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Doylestown, PA - Cape May County NJ, and all of the fishin\' holes known and unknown in the Delaware Bay and offshore!!! Last edited by Geekie1; 11-12-2008 at 04:11 PM. |
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#2
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Your 2nd picture shows the break away and the exposed corrosion. Is that the only broken bolt that is exposed? The corrosion looks like aluminum oxide. I have heard that straight chlorine bleach dissolves aluminum oxide. I would hit that corrosion with bleach to dissolve it. If all the bolts are indeed cut, that exposed bolt with aluminum oxide corrosion may be all that is holding it.
Geek
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Doylestown, PA - Cape May County NJ, and all of the fishin\' holes known and unknown in the Delaware Bay and offshore!!! |
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#3
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heat, hoist, prybar.
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#4
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#5
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#6
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__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#7
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Thanks guys...
Yep, I have drilled completely through the bolts. I can see the outline of the shank in each hole and you can just "feel" when the bit stops chewing on the SS and bites into straight aluminum. And now that you mention it I think I remember hearing about bleach on AlOx. I ventured into the forbidden sector (laundry area) to look for some but I found about 12 different scented fabric safe whiteners and brighteners and whatnot but nothing look or smelled like real bleach. I'm stopping to get some on the way home. There are precious few palces where you can gain leverage to pry on the head. The damn lower cowl is flimsy and in the way of everything. It's working against me like one of those cones you put on your dog so he can't chew his a$$. So hopefully next weekend I'll be able to hook it to a trolley hoist and apply lots of heat and pry and my BFH. Well every time I get out my BFH bad things usually happen...
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#8
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yes yamaha's have that dumb design with the solid cown that omd did away with a long time ago. with a hoist and heat you will start to see it seperate and you'll be able to slide a prybar into there.
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