Take care, your not the only one that has had their fill of stress this week. As far as the hot wiring the motor to spin it over for a compresion test, hook 12 V + to the starter selenoid( Folow the wire from the starter back), its a flat round selenoid, not like the ford type. Hook your battery up to the big pole that doesn't have the starter cable hooked to it, ground the negative cable to the starter bracket. Hook your remote starter to the terminal with the small yellow wire with a red stripe. That should power up the starter. The ignition will fire with out a key on switch( like a magneto), any time the flywheel is rotated, it will fire the coils, so be carefull, look for the black wire with the yellow stripe, ground that out and it will kill the ignition, or you can check the fire on each coil while you are testing the compresion by using a spark gap tester. Take a flash light( use a bore scope/light if you can find one), shine it in each cylinder with the plugs out, look at the edges of each piston for burn spots, look at the cylinder walls for scoring or signs of aluminum sticking to the walls. If you get real serious about it, show up with a set of head gaskets and a torque wrench, tell the seller you want to pull the heads, if you don't like what you see, put the heads back on with the new head gaskets and consider the head gaskets money well spent. If the seller isn't trying to hide anything, he shouldn't give you any crap about the head gaskest. But be prepared to pay his price if you don't find anything wrong, it goes both ways. These things are a bit different than auto engines, I got my start in the boat business working on I/Os and Inboards, after 22 years of working on boats, I'm still learning on outboards
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07-25-2008, 03:43 PM
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