need advice on used outboard purchase...

[bsteckel]

i am starting to look around for an outboard motor for my 1985 20' fisherman originally with a sea drive that has expired. i have a ton of experience with cars, but not much with boat motors, especially outboard motors. i have already found a flotation type bracket, so that is done.

from my research on this site, i am looking for a minimum of 150 hp to a max 0f 200 hp.

if i find a great deal on a 225, like the johnson motor posted in the classified section out of craigslist ... is it possible it can be used?

do i need to get all the steering, shift and throttle linkage or will the stuff i have work ... are all motors hydraulic steering and trim/tilt? what parts of the items i have in the boat can be re used if any?

what shoud i look for when looking at used outboards .. i see a lot about compression readings, etc. what are definite items i should be on the look out for.

i would like a dependable motor that i can work on myself rather than something i have to take to the dealer if there is a problem. i do not have enough experience to have develope a brand loyalty at this point. it looks like motors in the 1990 range - to mid nineties are available for a reasonable price. seen some yamahas, johnson, etc. i have read good things about the yamaha motors (2 stroke).

can you give me a crash course on what i need and what i should look for to do this project?

i know it is a tall order, but there is a lot of knowledge on this site!!!

thanks

Brad

[tsubaki]

Not having any prior knowledge about outboards, safest thing would be to buy a boat in running condition , use as many parts as possible and then sell or give away the unneeded hull.
Lots of times this is actually cheaper.

[spareparts]

check compresion, check for spark, check the lower unit for metal in the gear lube. Stay away from motors that have been used in salt water if you can help it. Loop charged motors are prefered(stay away from older John Rudes). Be carefull of the weight(some Yamaha 2 stroke engines are heavier than you think). Stick with a carb motor, you don't need the complexity of efi or dfi. Run away from anything that has Ficht written on it. Be carefull of "rebuilt" engines, theres no telling whats been done. Check Craigs list around areas with large lakes, between last years drought, and this years high gas prices, you may be able to find a deal on a whole boat, pull the motor, than sell or trade teh boat off.

Its a salt water motor, but look for something like this
http://www.charlestonfishing.com/for...il.asp?id=5321

[macojoe]

Everything spare said!!

Also 0n before 94 Yamaha had steel shift shafts that break and anything that old now that hasn't been fixed will soon! I have heard from $300 to as much as $1000 to replace them if needed!

Todays gas, I would stay 150 to 175 hp, most of the time they are the same motor just carb'ed different to get the extra HP.

[Bygracealone]

I converted my V20 from a Sea Drive to a bracket w/ outboard. I believe if you get a Johnson or Evinrude your controls will work; otherwise, you will need new controls. By controls, I'm referring to the control box and throttle and shifter cable. Wiring is a different matter. I think you might be okay if you get a Johnson or Evinrude older than 95 or older. Otherwise, you will need a new harness.

Not all motors come with hydraulic steering, so look carefully if you want it. If you want to keep the steering you currently have, you will probably have to make a few adjustments to the hoses to make them connect to a steering cylinder. If your next motor doesn't come with the cylinder, you will need to find one if you want to keep the hydraulic steering. I ended up ditching mine and going with a No Feedback Steering kit. I like it.

[THEFERMANATOR]

For a V-20 my first choice would coincide BIGSHRIMPIN's, and that would be a 2.0L MERCURY 150HP. They were light weight at around 385 pounds, made EXCELLENT RELIABLE power, fairly easy to work, and probably the best on fuel economy of any of the old school 2 strokers. The 2.4L and 2.5L MERCS are still reliable and TORQUE out of this world, but they are also THIRSTY! YAMAHA makes a good outboard as well with the exception of the steel shift shaft. There are also alot of parts avaiable for them as they are pretty reliable and don't need many. I'm personally not a big YAMAHA fan as they never impressed me power wise in the ones I seen. I really like the SUZUKI, but in the size range your looking I would avoid them as all of ther V-6's weigh in from 450-470 pounds. And if you wanna go with a JOHNNY-RUDE, my reccomendation would actually be a 140 from 85-94. They don't have the low RPM grunt of a V6, but once they hit there power band hang on. There also pretty good on fuel and very reliable. Downfall being weight as they weigh in close to 400 pounds. If you want a V-6 JOHNNY-RUDE, I would go early looper in a 200/225 configuration. They actually use about the same amount of fuel at cruise as the 150/175's did. They weigh in in the mid to upper 400 pound range though, and I would avoid them for the same reason as the SUZUKI.

These would be my choices and why I would consider each, and I would also seriously consider the weight issue as it says you have a fisherman model which should be a center console. The center consoles don't make the bracket conversion as easily as the cuddy did due to center of blance in the hull.

[willy]

Ferm, you are a pretty smart fellow


But I would disagree on only one point, Yamaha, I think that in the end even though they are a lower compression engine and do not put out the low end grunt of the Mercs they put out more than enough for just about any use short of around the pylon racing. What little they lose power wise they make up for many times over in outright reliability.
Now if I had your mechanical skills I would run mercs all day as I could fix just about anything that comes down the pike, but for an average joe blow like me the reliability and trouble free service far outweigh the slightly lower torque value.
As a second choice I would run JohnnyRude carbs and take the fuel hit for the longevity and durability factor.
The dozen or so friends of mine that have been very active boaters and very serious fisherman all their lives, men whose opinions I respect have had every motor there is, a few of them work on them themselves as they are skilled mechanics like you, but to a man they agree with the above statement. And to a man they have told me that for shear power it is tough to beat a Merc but have your wallet handy.

[THEFERMANATOR]

The 2.4L MERCS can get costly when something let's go in em, but the 2L's aren't as bad. They use a standard steel sleeve so they are not as expensive to rebuild, and electronics on them can be found easily and fit a wide range of years. YAMAHA's never really apealed to me as I remember being a kid and our 25HP SUZUKI flat out dusting a guy in a smaller boat with a 50HP YAMAHA. Not to mention all of the boats with YAMAHA's I rode in didn't seem to impress me with there grunt. They are solid, and 150/175's and quite a few of the 200's had good reputations for reliability and fuel economy.

[bsteckel]

excellent info, guys ... a few more questions ..

ferm .. when you say "early" what years are referring to?

i have been looking at a 1990 johnson 225 ... states less than 100 hr on rebuilt power head .. controls and harness included $1000

and also a 1992 yamaha 200 ... stated 200-300 hrs freshwater use no controls $1600

i was told my boat (85 fisherman 20) may only hold a 200 hp motor ..my boat capacity decal is gone

would the extra 25 hp of the johnson be a problem with a bracket?

would either be easier to install with my current old setup (sea drive) than the other?

both of these are near where i live .. the yamaha is real close.

what do ya think?

[spareparts]

around here, the Yamahas are the most popular, thay have the percieved reputation of being more reliable. They generally cost more outright, usually packaged on more upscale boats, and are usually owned by people with more money and less mechanical ability. These people are more likely to have the shop do whatever it takes to make them run right and generally don't argue over price. They are serviced by the book with no skimping.( there are a lot of parraells here that can be referenced to certain brands of cars as well). The fact that these motors are generally serviced better has a lot to do with their reputation. I take nothing away form Yamaha, they build a very good engine. Depending on the hp and application, they usually rank either #1 or #2 in my choice of outboard power with Mercury. But they are not as good as a lot of people think they are, they break just like every other motor out there. Everyone tells me that Yamaha ignitions never give any trouble, you don't know how much time I've wasted diagnosing a rough running engine by ignoring ignition issues by believing they don't give any trouble. Ignitions are expensive!!!! for Yamahas, with virtualy no aftermarket replacement parts. Yamaha engines don't hold up to salt as well as Merc/John Rudes either. The paint they put on them holds up well, its where you cant see that they corrode(like most Japanese outboards). When we tear down a Yamaha lower unit, we allways get the torch out no matter how clean it looks. teh up side is that Yamaha complete new lower units cost about half as much as Mercurys. Every engine has its plus or minuses, consider the application, how its maintained, availabilty of parts and service, reputation, and resale when considering your purchase. Pay a professional thast familiar with that type of engine to check it out for you, its money well spent. If a good deal came up on a Yamaha, i wouldn't hesitate in buying one. Right now, I've got my eye on a 3.0L 225 carb Mercury that may end up on my V