86 Yamaha V6 - Hay Bigshrimpin

[Monkey Butler]

Just to keep everyone up to date....

My 1986 Yamaha V6 Special has the shift rod rot that is common on these motors. If it didn't run so d...m well I'd be looking at repowering but that's another story.

I started tinkering with getting the powerhead off with some good initial advice from the Beeg Shrimp Man but you know how these things go.

Found one long bolt already snapped off at the head. Got 3 of the 5 other long bolts out okay. One looked like it was coming out and could see 1/4 inch of the shaft then it sheared, about an inch into the adapter between the block and the intermediate.

So I've got one long bolt left that I have a feeling won't budge. BS I need your help here! I know my next steps are going to have to impart some destuction but whrere do I stab the beast?

You still have them parts?

[bigshrimpin]

I know I have 5 long bolts . . . I might have thrown away the spacer in my moving frenzie. I'll double check . . . if I have it . . . it'll cost you $5,000,000 b/c I know you snapped your bolts . . . just kidding ;) It's the worst feeling . . . but you can fix it 2 ways . . . drill horzontally through the bolts 1/2" below the powerhead or sawsall through them. If you sawsall . . . you won't be able to reuse the 5" spacer.

[bigshrimpin]

It might be worth looking to see if you can remove the intake/carbs and pull the shaft up and out that what. I've heard the motors with the horizontal front will allow the shift shaft to be removed that way without having to pull the powerhead.

V6 special is a good motor!!

[Geekie1]

Powerhead must be pulled to replace the shift rod. The best way to cut the broken bolts is as explained above, is to cut the bolt shafts as close to the powerhead as possible by drilling horizontally with a 3/8" or 1/2" DeWalt Pilot Point bit. Pilot point bits will not wander like a standard drill bit. Also, are you using heat when attempting to remove the bolts? The vertical holes in the intermediate housing that the long bolts go through are tapered, and the taper is much smaller near the bolt head. The holes are about 8mm near the bolt head and about 12mm near the powerhead. Aluminum oxide corrosion binds the bolt shank near the head causing the heads to snap off when attempting to loosen bolts. Threads into the powerhead are almost never cause the bind. Heating the aluminum housing near the bolt heads with acetylene torch or maybe a Mapp gas torch will help. If you apply more than 30ft lbs torque on the bolt heads while the bolt shafts are bound, you will shear off the heads. When you replace the bolts on re-assembly, you can fill the holes in the intermediate housing with silicone. Be sure you replace the shaft with a stainless steel shaft. Yammies before 94 had plain steel shafts which corrode. Shift rod length is different according to shaft length. 25" shaft is called UR Ultra Long shaft, PN 6E5-44120-23-00, 20" shaft is called UR Long, PN 6e5-44120 03-00. Double check these part #'s. These part #'s are for 1995 150, 175, 200 V6 Yamahas which definitely were stainless steel and are otherwise identical to the 84 to 94 regular steel shift rods.

Geek

[bigshrimpin]

I found the intermediate housing . . . I didn't throw it away.

I'll bring it back with me to MA . . . I leave here on Tuesday the 20th. If you want I can ship it to you. If you drill through the bolts it'll take a while . . . sawsall takes 2 minutes. Also if you drill through the bolts good luck getting the old ones out even with heat and a punch. The stubs in the powerhead will come out with heat and vice grips just like Geekie mentioned.

[bigshrimpin]

Geekie . . . I know the shift rod won't pull straight up on the vertical reed front . . . but I've heard the horizontal front (220 special, excel, and 225) has enough clearance. Monkey can you post profile shot of your motor showing the top of the shift shaft (shift linkage) and the carb/intake . . . make sure you remove the air box for the pic. I'm very curious to know if what I've heard is correct.