Transom repair - Here we go..... (long)

[mauryc]

I was hoping to not have to paint and do any finish work. I don't want it to look like a patch job. But I may consider that. I know the cap won't do anything but provide looks. As fas as screwing an drilling, I'll get to that next. I haven't begun to remount anything yet.

[bradford]

Looks great! Whoever redid my transom glassed over the top like skools did. Awesome pics and good commentary. I might be picking up a project boat that I know needs transom work and I don't really want to get into pulling the cap.

Did you use all 15 gallons? and if not is there a formula to figure out how much material is needed for the thickness and area of the transom?

[spareparts]

along the same question that Bradford asked. Did all 15 gal go to the V, or did you do your little boat also?

[C YENSEN]

great job, great post......Hammer would be proud

[parishht]

I really like the detail in this post,
I think I could do a transom this way aaaaannnnndd
I think I may need to do mine in the next couple of years.

[mauryc]

I just took measurements with a tape measure and drew it out on engineering paper. The key is the thickness. I did my calcs using 1 3/4 inch wood thickness and the dimensions were out to the sides of the hull. I came up with almost 4000 cubic inches or almost 17 gallons. I took about a gallon off of that for outter hull thickness. I knew it would be close. The void was closer to 1 1/2 inches thick and the void didn't extend up as far on the sides as I thought. I ended up using about 14 gallons total. I had received a free gallon of the stuff as a sample a while back so I had about 16 gallons on hand. When I did the sides, I mixed up a gallon at a time.

Spareparts, I don't own a little boat - that was tsubaki's contribution to the post.

Its not 100% complete, but here are some of my thoughts. I DID NOT want to pull the cap or cut it in any way. I don't go offshore much anymore - this boat will spend most of its life in the lakes and bayous down here pulling tubes and keeping beer cold. I feel this transom will certainly hold up to that. I live in a subdivision so I can't (nor did I want to) have boat parts spread all over my yard for weeks on end. I wasn't able to hang a hoist from anything to pull the cap off so I chose this method. I was able to contain the mess to my boat port. Finally, the cost was probably a little more than wood and glass, but not much. Quality resin is expensive. And obviously, taking it to someone would have been $2k easy. My transom in my old 75' V was $1500 about 15 years ago. I didn't have that $$ to invest in a boat I paid about $4k for.

Removing the wood is by far the hardest part (except for removing a 175 Johnson without a hoist!) So far, I have about 10-12 solid hours in the project (removing the wood was most of that time). The pour took longer than I thought - about 3 hours. That's mostly because of the upper parts of the transom and I had to let the lower part solidify so the stuff wouldn't ooze out when I poured. All in all, that's not bad.

Final pics and comments soon.

Maury

[macojoe]

See if you took my word way back when, we could have all called for a sample like you then shipped to you and it would have been free!!

Remeber this parishht, you and 15 brothers and you all set!!

[lumberslinger178]

thats great work keep the pics coming

[msbhammer]

WOW, who is this guy ????, look at all I have missed !!!. Great work man, Hats off to ya. Cant believe the cost either, and the time as well you saved. I must have put out $1800.00 to redo my transom myself, plus the super long hours I put in as well.
Again, great job brother, glad to have ya hear as a member to help others out.
Hammer.

[cfelton]

Fine job you did there Muaryc.That thing looks d@m good. Looks like your about ready ta hang that motor on and go!!