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#1
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wow! thanks for all the information. My best hope is that there is just some build up or old impeller parts stuck and clogging somthing. They have to be somewhere because I saw what was left of the old ones. From my understanding the heat exchanger might be a source of a blockage. It will be a few months before I get into this project, but I think I will start with ordering new gaskets for everything having to do with the cooling system so when I dissasemble everyhing for a detailed cleaning I can put it back together properly. If it is a cylinder or compression problem I will be lost on where to go from there. I did have the original 79 engine replaced with a rebuilt 82 two years ago and it ran right for a half of a season took the boat back to the guy at the end of the year to fix the problem. He said he replaced the impellers in the water pumps. long story short its got to be somthing simple because the two guys after him cant figure it out either.
I did replace the radiator cap that was rusted and faulty Is there a way to save this thread so I can go back to this information? Also it was mentioned that I might be able to bypass the heat exchanger? Is there a way to modify the system so that it cycles raw water like every other boat? I live in Michigan so I am not concerned about having this closed system anyway |
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#2
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I wouldn't by pass the heat exchanger, that engine was designed for closed cooling from the beginning, I don't know for sure it would cool correctly as a raw water engine, you might be creating more problems rather than fixing the one you have. you could bypass it to check the heating problem,, but it wouldn't tell you a whole lot. that engine uses the closed system to prevent electroalysis between the aluminum block and cast iron head, you'll get that in any water(some just worse than others depending on alkalinaty, temp, and mineral content). Stick with the basics, make sure you used the correct pressure cap, check compresion, water flow, and water out pressure( use a gauge like ferm said)
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#3
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Ive got a 77v with the same engine. While getting mine started the first few times I forgot ta turn the water back on to the muffs and burnt up the impeller in the outdrive (it only takes a few seconds). After replacing it I found a small handful behind the water intakes on the outdrive which stopped the water flow COMPLETELY! I also found a bunch of old pieces in the heat exchanger behind the front end cap. One more thing, is it a 3 or 4 inch exchanger? I think the old 3 inch ones are not big enough. Spareparts bout covered it all.Attach the waterhose and muffs and crank it up and check your water flow. Just dont run it extremely hot, its an alum block with a cast iron head and I dont think it would take alot ta blow a head gasket. Two different metals heating up differently! NEVER start one without the water hooked up!
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77 V20 cuddy with 170 I/O Mercruiser 72 16ft. Carolina w/a 25hp Evinrude Last edited by cfelton; 01-05-2008 at 08:55 PM. |
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#4
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This thread will be here 10 years from now!! Just use the search when you want it again, type in overheating and anything with the word over heating will come up.
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#5
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Just Pay whatever air fare might be and send out SPARE to fix it.
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#6
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probably would have been cheaper to do that and pay for his hotel, rental car and a hooker :)
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#7
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just bring it down here and park it in the back yard, just made room by finishing the wiring job on the 15 whaler, it can sit beside the galstron and my v
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