Water coming out of carb

[Larryrsf]

Originally Posted by spoggy

Well, when becoming an owner of a vintage boat, you wind up taking on a tremendous amount of the work yourself. I purchased a 1977 V20 Cuddy, with a 1971 Mercury 1350 outboard about two weeks ago. There's a thread here that I started under "Repairs" that I will wind up doing myself.

Just to get the motor to where I'm comfortable, I'll be rebuilding the water pump, fuel pumps and carbs. Doing a full tune-up, new plug wires and distributer parts, replace any bad wiring and all the seals (and possibly bearings) in the lower unit. Then, I'll be rebuilding the controls and replacing the wiring.
All this for a boat that was in the water last year and fished. Some here may think its a bit of overkill, but I've seen some things in the way that the boat was maintained (or not) that make me scratch my head. I prefer to minimize some of the problems that I may have inherited.

To take a vessel that has "sat in a field for 14 years" and "add carb cleaner to the fuel and go" takes a level of confidence in the PO that I don't possess. Great boating to you!

Well, remember that I hired a certified outboard mechanic to come here and start the engine and completely check it out, do a formal evaluation. He recorded the cylinder pressures, tilt pump output, generator output, and much else. The numbers indicated a recent overhaul of the powerhead before it was stored all those years. It had NEW motor compression. It idled slightly rough, hence his advice to have the carbs rebuilt at the end of the season and to add fuel conditioner in the mean time, just run it a few dozen+ hours. He rebuilt the water pump and serviced the lower unit.

He checked the controls and steering and found them sound. I replaced the starter switch because the original key had been misplaced. When inside the remote unit I found it clean and sound mechanically. I rewired the boat almost completely. I added a new fuse panel and ran wires from the new fuel level senders to the dashboard. I added a second battery and a battery selector switch.

And I removed and flushed out the two saddle fuel tanks. I replaced all the fuel hose and the tank selector valve. I added a big water separator/filter and a new squeeze bulb and connector.

Then he and I replaced ALL the rubber fuel hoses between carbs and fuel pump. We replaced every connector and every hose clamp tie.

So it wasn't just blind trust when I decided to put it in a Marina for the Summer. I really believe it will run well. It does seem to be idling better each time I take it out.

He said an interesting thing about that old engine, "2-cycle engines are amazing, they will run almost regardless of anything!" And a 6-cylinder engine can bring you in when several cylinders drop out.

I also have BOATUS insurance. Free tow if I get stuck out there on the harbor somewhere!

And now I have my trailer back, and he had to essentially keep the open steel channel and replace everything else! You name a trailer part and mine is new, not just new, but the best heavy-duty option. New longer tongue, new springs, new axles, new fenders, new bearings and one new hub because the broken lug bolt couldn't be removed. New hitch, new jack on a swivel wheel, new winch, new safety chains, new safety chain to the boat eye, new bunks, new rollers, new led lights that can be submerged without concern. And of course the whole thing painted with the best epoxy paint baked on. Not galvanized, but infinitely better than most other steel trailers, especially the crap from Ensenada, ha. Total rebuild cost: $3000! But he said the trailer could be sold for $3500+ tomorrow morning-- It is "Henry Trailers" here in El Cajon, CA. He has the best reputation in the area by far. Not cheap, but super high quality. Resale value!

So now my trailer is worth more than boat and motor together!

I'll take some photos and try to throw them up for everyone to see.

Larry