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#31
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I think it is a solid choice, and while it may be overkill, I've anchored in some very strong rips (to fish) where the current was probably going 10 knots or so... no exageration.... so I'd rather have too much holding power than risk breaking loose. I got 300' of 1/2" of the same rope you selected. I like it.. so far... but it is heavy when wet, and it *does* take up a lot of space. Regarding bow rollers. I think the pivoting one is better. The pivot helps with deploying and retrieving... Plus at least one of the non-pivoting rollers you listed is 304 stainless steel. I've read that 312 stainless stands up to salt water better, and I *believe* that the pivoting ahcnor roller is 312 SS, but I'm not 100% certain. |
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#32
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Hello folks, Does anyone have any info about where a Bimini or other style top for my V20 can be purchased, is there a better top than the Bimini? In your own humble opinions?
Thanks and stay safe |
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#33
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I got a bimini off of eBay, little over $100 two years ago. Destroyer recommended the vender. It has held up great. Two years in the Florida sun, no issues. Comes complete with frame,canvas, and cover. I ve never taken mine down
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#34
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I boat alone a lot, or with in experienced help, so I like the idea of being able to deploy and retrieve from the cockpit, or at least standing in the cuddy... it's easier... I'm still at (or closer to) the helm, and it's safer, especially if the seas aren't dead-calm. That's lead me to think that I want a deck pipe on the fore deck on the port side of the opening for the cabin, near the windshield, with a pop-up cleat in front of it... that way I can open the windshield, and then release or retrieve the anchor easily. I'd put a laundry basket under the deck pipe to gather and hold the anchor rope and chain. I've also purchased a pin and device that I'll call a chain lock (I don't know the correct name) that you can use to secure the chain as well. Just looking to learn from the experience of others before I start making holes all over the fore deck! I'm thinking that a deck pipe close to the anchor roller in the bow wouldn't be very good, because someone would have to go up onto the foredeck to deploy or retrieve the anchor. Even when I'm not alone, at times I'm anchoring where it can be dangerous, like near rocks on the edges of channels by Falmouth or the Buzzards Bay in Mass.... these areas have very strong currents, so I feel safer keeping everyone safely inside the cockpit. (in fact... No ONE gets to pee over the side of my boat when we're at sea. Pee into a "lil-john' bottle, pee on the splash deck, or even go to the stern and pee on the deck (I've got a raw water washdown hose). I don't want ANYONE leaning far enough over the side for them to clear the gunnel.... the currents are too strong, and an unforeseen wake from a big commercial boat such as a ferry, could rock the boat and put someone in the drink! It's just not worth the risk, and a far too dangerous to try to rescue someone out of those conditions (although, obviously I *would*, and also call for help if I have *any* difficulty. -- sorry for the off-topic rant! Just sharing. Safety is #1 priority. It's easy to wash-away piss, but it sucks if a person gets washed away!) Thanks! Last edited by pjbrownva; 01-22-2022 at 11:26 AM. |
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#35
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@ahokrags, I really like the anchor roller. I think it was well worth the money.
I've set up the roller and bow pulpit made out of Ipe wood, replaced the single bow light with a separate port and starboard ones, and removed the cleat for the anchor. I haven't put a new cleat on yet, or actually used the anchor yet, but I think it'll be a big improvement! More to come once I'm done! |
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#36
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Great to know! I'm learning a ton! Thank you. |
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#37
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I put it next to the pivoting roller and cleat. It is big enough to pass chain.
I cut a hole into the bow anchor locker and siliconed in a piece of 4" landscape drain pipe. The rode comes out on its own from the weight of the anchor/chain falling. I hauled the rode onto the deck. If I was moving around I kept it on deck. Deploying and hauling could be done standing in the open sliding hatch. Sometimes I even hauled it from way back on the main deck with the window open and laid the rode on the main deck. When done for the day I hauled it below by hand thru the pipe down in the cabin. That kept the cabin clear of a basket of line. 3/8" 3 strand. 1/4" chain Before I had the deck pipe I ran it under the windshield, under the sliding hatch and into the cabin. I could actually have line there and still lock the hatch.
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc Last edited by SkunkBoat; 01-25-2022 at 01:02 PM. |
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#38
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Just wondering...
I'm looking to learn from your experience, and also share mine! :-) -Philip |
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#39
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Skunkboat, or others using a pivoting roller, how do you secure the anchor so that the pivoting part of the roller assembly doesn***8217;t bounce around? I have the pivoting roller through bolted and back plated directly to the deck with the original bow cleat still in place. No matter how I do it, I can***8217;t get enough down pull on the stem of the anchor to prevent the roller from drooping and bouncing around. I***8217; ve considered drilling through both portions of the roller and pinning it but would prefer not to go that route. Any tips?
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#40
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But I didn't have much problem when it was not being used. Just a little bounce with the chain wrapped on the cleat
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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