battery placement

[Slightly_Twisted]

Well I***8217;ve some time to work on the boat. Finished all the removal, just need to clean the boat up and start installing all the new wiring. There where soooooo many wires rusted off their connections no wonder why things didn***8217;t work! I also pulled the gas tank cover to one replace the ground wire and two inspect the tank. Looks good from what I can tell dry foam and no gas in the bottom.

I ran the main starting wires from the bow to the stern to make sure they were long enough, and I was able to use the 2 AWG I had already,, next will be the battery switch and the new fuse box when I have some time.


I was thinking about putting a new set of gauges in, but dont want to spend the money if I cant use them for multiple engines. Is it possible to do that? Buy a set now use them for the seadrive then use again for when I repower?

[randlemanboater]

Looking good.

I don't know that you will find any gauges that would work with your old school 2 smoke and a modern motor...I guess it depends on if you are planning to go modern with your next motor.

[Slightly_Twisted]

hey guys quick question.

I'm putting in 6 LED deck lights what terminal wiring is better? All wire will be individual run pairs to each light. From the switch to one of the following terminals.

something like this

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments...ng-jpg.237958/

or using one like this

https://www.ebay.com/i/291855967186?rt=nc


I like the second one for WAY less connectors used.

thanks

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by Slightly_Twisted

hey guys quick question.

I'm putting in 6 LED deck lights what terminal wiring is better? All wire will be individual run pairs to each light. From the switch to one of the following terminals.

something like this

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments...ng-jpg.237958/

or using one like this

https://www.ebay.com/i/291855967186?rt=nc


I like the second one for WAY less connectors used.

thanks

assuming they are all going to be switched on/off together...

You could $ave money on wire and terminals if you run one set of + & - wires and tap your leds in parallel. LEDs don't draw much, probably #14 wire is more than enough for 6 leds.
unless your talking big LED floodlights then go #12 wire

This way you are only pulling one pair of wires and you don't have a mess of wires to deal with

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by Slightly_Twisted

I was thinking about putting a new set of gauges in, but dont want to spend the money if I cant use them for multiple engines. Is it possible to do that? Buy a set now use them for the seadrive then use again for when I repower?

A lot of new motors,even without digital controls, have a single all-in-one gauge Tach with leds for temp/ pressure/engine alarms...no need for extra gauges

[Slightly_Twisted]

Skunk,

If I did run a single pair what splice would you recommend?

thanks

[SkunkBoat]

I would spend the extra and get Anchor duplex marine wire 14/2. That keeps the red and black together ... easier and cleaner to run.

Depending on gauge of wire from LEDs (usually 18 or 22)...
if possible twist the LED to one end and insert in blue butt splice and crimp to other end. Continue down the line.

If LED leads are heavy, the twisted wires might not fit in a blue. They do make yellow/blue combos.

You could also twist all three together and just crimp them in a yellow splice.

Key is to seal out salt water.

I would n't use the T-Tap connectors that they use on trailers. TRAILER LIGHTS SUCK.

[BillTex]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

I would spend the extra and get Anchor duplex marine wire 14/2. That keeps the red and black together ... easier and cleaner to run.

Depending on gauge of wire from LEDs (usually 18 or 22)...
if possible twist the LED to one end and insert in blue butt splice and crimp to other end. Continue down the line.

If LED leads are heavy, the twisted wires might not fit in a blue. They do make yellow/blue combos.

You could also twist all three together and just crimp them in a yellow splice.

Key is to seal out salt water.

I would n't use the T-Tap connectors that they use on trailers. TRAILER LIGHTS SUCK.

hey skunk...happy new year...

This all sounds great...can you provide links or pics so the electrically challenged can understand?
I have similar project in mind.

Thx, Bill

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by BillTex

hey skunk...happy new year...

This all sounds great...can you provide links or pics so the electrically challenged can understand?
I have similar project in mind.

Thx, Bill

pix of 14/2 marine wire (DO NOT USE 14/2 NM-B "ROMEX" solid home electrical wire. In fact NEVER USE SOLID WIRE ON A BOAT)
butt splices are color coded for wire gauge that fits.
There are special splices that allow one end to fit a large wire than the other, they have color coded stripes on one end.(One might need this if you are twisting two wires together and inserting in one end of a splice that is joining to a single wire.)

Always crimp with proper color coded crimper NOT pliers.

[SkunkBoat]

You COULD get away with a single + and single - 14 awg stranded wire and you COULD use T-taps (Iwouldn't do it on a salt water boat)

This would be the fastest, easiest method to do it.