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  #11  
Unread 05-28-2017, 08:13 PM
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phatdaddy phatdaddy is offline
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never did like the way wellcraft had sheet metal screws holding down the hatch, too easy to strip out, kept loosening up, etc. decided to see if i could improve on this. screwed some aztec board to the stringers, going to drill and tap and put some 1/4-20 stainless screws in them. for the ones on the forward side i had to epoxy some starboard on the lip, bulkhead was to far away.

the "clamps" are pieces of 2" pvc, work great




when i changed out the tank 3 years ago, i had to cut the lip off one side. replaced it with aztec also



epoxy supplies should be here tuesday, tying to get it back together for snapper season,

all 3 days of it
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  #12  
Unread 05-29-2017, 04:34 PM
wellcraftv20step wellcraftv20step is offline
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Looks like it will work well phat, love the pvc clamp!!!!!
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  #13  
Unread 06-03-2017, 05:49 PM
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supposed to rain today, so i started this phase:



well, weatherman lied, but i was already committed,



waiting on epoxy to cure now. not too happy with work, ply had more warp in it than i thought, hope i got a good bond
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  #14  
Unread 07-05-2017, 11:01 AM
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Weight, shoulda added weight to the plywood to press it into the adhesive. My .02 probably a little late now.
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  #15  
Unread 07-05-2017, 04:45 PM
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Thats one reason why they use little squares instead of a full piece
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  #16  
Unread 07-05-2017, 07:54 PM
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I did ridge, i had 6 five gallon buckets full of water, plus a couple of of battery cores and 100 lbs do lead ingots on it. I applied a thickened mixture of cabosil and epoxy on the hatch, wet out the ply and put it on the floor. Then stacked the weight on. Worked great. After that, a layer of 6oz cloth.

Solid as the deck of the kitty hawk now.

Exactly skunk. I was thinking about doing the squares again, but figured this was faster.

Worst part of the whole deal is my caulking.
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  #17  
Unread 07-06-2017, 10:59 PM
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LOL, cool. Weight will mash that plywood in nicely. Good job.
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  #18  
Unread 07-14-2017, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradford View Post
Ferm did a write up on this several years ago.

Putting a "bevel" edge on the plywood will make getting the glass to stick without bubbles a lot easier around the edges.

I hinged mine to make access easy to the tank and fittings.
Bradford did you hinge it on the v21? If so I'd like to see/hear how you did it.
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  #19  
Unread 07-14-2017, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue_Runner View Post
Bradford did you hinge it on the v21? If so I'd like to see/hear how you did it.
Its a boat, no matter how well you seal it its gonna get water or at least condensation in it. My original tank had at least a dozen holes in it some fist sized due to water corroding the aluminum.

Hinged it just like the fish box, all hinges for all my hatches are on the port side. The tank is not foamed in, its 5200ed on treated 2x4s 5200ed to the bilge. You can rinse the salt off the tank and all drains to the bilge. No foam lets the tank breathe and sweat which its doing anyway, and allows for rinsing it off, the hinged lid allows for easy inspection plus eliminates having the pie plate inspection ports with all their screws rotting out your new hatch lid. Did this way back in 03 or 04 before I found this place and has worked great with no issues. Others will have different opinions much like etec vs yamaha, chevy vs ford, reagan vs mondale.

Wish my tech retarded *** could figure out the pics, not bragging, but y'all would love my V.
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  #20  
Unread 09-30-2017, 09:05 PM
jetblue319 jetblue319 is offline
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Hear are a few photos of my recoring,of my 86 v20 fuel tank panel, I used 3/4 in. Marine plywood, smooth edges, and used 5200 to attach to panel. Then made peanut butter with poly resin and talcum, to smooth out the edges. I used 1.5 oz matt,,followed by a layer of 1078. First time working with fiberglass. Next the live bait panel.
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