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  #1  
Unread 05-03-2014, 05:40 PM
dan4836 dan4836 is offline
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Default Fuel Tank Set

Good day today. I was able to set the gas tank and run the hoses and fuel sender wire. Also, was able to glass in some more supports for the floor. I left about one inch of the original floor but I think some added support can't hurt.

3/4" plywood going in tomorrow for the floor. Stingers are also 3/4" plywood with 1708 and CSM. I can't believe how strong this stuff is when cured. I plan on using my V often in the ocean and I will know this boat is built like a tank!
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  #2  
Unread 05-03-2014, 08:10 PM
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Looking really good!
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  #3  
Unread 05-03-2014, 08:13 PM
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Real nice job !! your repairs will out last you , GREAT WORK
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  #4  
Unread 05-04-2014, 11:50 AM
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Looks good, how many gallons is that tank? Looks big.
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  #5  
Unread 05-04-2014, 04:16 PM
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It DOES look oversized...and that's a good thing!!

Are you going back w/a removable lid?

That's some really nice work...
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  #6  
Unread 05-04-2014, 05:35 PM
dan4836 dan4836 is offline
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Default 52 Gallons

I was able to find a tank that fits locally for sale. 52 gallon poly tank. Cleaned it out, installed new fuel sender, installed new filler, vent line and fuel supply line.

52 gallons should give me about 200 miles with the Merc 470.

I am not going to cut the floor to make it removable just installing access plates for the fuel sender and pickup.

I installed this tank to last a long time. No foam, 3/4 plywood glassed on both sides, poly tank (no rot). I am not planning on going back into the tank well every again...

I was able to install most of the floor today and glassed over it with CSM (one layer) I need to do one more layer and some fairing around the sides.

How do you get some of the rough areas out of the floor? I am guessing some sanding in between layers...

Thinking about doing Kiwigrip non skid. The person that sold me the resin told me to use gelcoat with pumice. Any suggestions?
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  #7  
Unread 05-05-2014, 04:26 AM
dan4836 dan4836 is offline
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Default Floor glassed in

3/4" plywood down and glassed over with one layer of CSM and 1708 tabbed in around the sides. I am planning on one more layer of CSM then coating with Kiwigrip.
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  #8  
Unread 05-05-2014, 09:36 AM
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I'm not familiar with Kiwigrip, so cannot comment on it. Several people have used sand mixed in with paint, several people have used non-skid paint from different companies, and a few of us (like myself) have used truck bed liner type products (Rhinoliner, U-Pol, etc) I used the U-Pol Raptor and I love it. It's tintable so you can have almost any color that you want. Blood, dirt and stuff comes off easily with a pressure washer. It has a sort of a rubbery feel under your feet, (perfect for bare feet) and it wears like iron. Just something to think about. This is what it looks like after it's put down.

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Unread 05-06-2014, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan4836 View Post
I was able to find a tank that fits locally for sale. 52 gallon poly tank. Cleaned it out, installed new fuel sender, installed new filler, vent line and fuel supply line.

52 gallons should give me about 200 miles with the Merc 470.

I am not going to cut the floor to make it removable just installing access plates for the fuel sender and pickup.

I installed this tank to last a long time. No foam, 3/4 plywood glassed on both sides, poly tank (no rot). I am not planning on going back into the tank well every again...

I was able to install most of the floor today and glassed over it with CSM (one layer) I need to do one more layer and some fairing around the sides.

How do you get some of the rough areas out of the floor? I am guessing some sanding in between layers...

Thinking about doing Kiwigrip non skid. The person that sold me the resin told me to use gelcoat with pumice. Any suggestions?
Sand it or grind it, fair it if necessary.

For non-Skid:

I've used both Cabosil (SiO2 --Silicon Dioxide). mixed with non-laminating gelcoat, and Interlux a Perfection mixed with their texture material for non-skid. One friend recommended using rolled two part paint and then sprinkling it with sugar, when dry dissolve the sugar with water--but I've never tried that. SiO2 is very light and cheap unless you buy it from the wrong place--micro balloons for example is the same product I believe.

I have huge supply of the Cabosil you can have some if you are nearby. Mix that equal parts by volume with the wax type Gelcoat. I suppose it would work with paint also.

I liked the a Interlux paint and non skid better, although you need to work fast and if you re-roll over it after it starts to set up you will make it worse. Have to do it right the first time and touch up after it hardens if you don't like any sections. A boat this size would be a piece of cake to do. It would take more time taping it off than rolling it.

You might want to do a few tests to see what suits your best.
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  #10  
Unread 05-06-2014, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Destroyer View Post
I'm not familiar with Kiwigrip, so cannot comment on it. Several people have used sand mixed in with paint, several people have used non-skid paint from different companies, and a few of us (like myself) have used truck bed liner type products (Rhinoliner, U-Pol, etc) I used the U-Pol Raptor and I love it. It's tintable so you can have almost any color that you want. Blood, dirt and stuff comes off easily with a pressure washer. It has a sort of a rubbery feel under your feet, (perfect for bare feet) and it wears like iron. Just something to think about. This is what it looks like after it's put down.

I would use sugar instead of sand. When you use sand it is hard to sand off if you want to remove it at some point.

I think you nailed it with the UPol. I used that for my pickup bed and it was cheap and tough. The fumes will make you sick though like most two part mixes.

I've seen that used on aluminum boats and it seals well too. I'm glad you mentioned it because it really is the best choice.

Last edited by Night_Sailor; 05-06-2014 at 01:21 AM.
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