Cap is off - Page 12

Kracker Jack · #**111** 12-03-2012, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola

I will definately look into it. What resin is good for building a leaning post, livewell, tackle center. And a pilot house center console? Nothing will be mold built its all going to be glass covered Marine ply. I am shooting for an Everglades type console.

And this is when the the long drawn battle begins between Poly,vinyl and epoxy. They all have there ups and downs. Polyester is at the bottom of the list it just doesn't have the ahesion the other 2 have but its cheap!!! Then you have vinylester which has good adhesion but is a little more expensive than poly. I wish now i would have spent the extra money and went with vinyl. Then you have epoxy which of course is the best but is ridiculously expensive!!!!

tartuffe · #**112** 12-03-2012, 08:57 PM

Something that can be completely glassed in one session and then bolted or screwed to the boat is a good candidate for vinylester; pilot house, tackle station

You can start a project with epoxy and come back within 24 hours without having to sand and you will still get a chemical bond. Vinylester requires sanding to get a good bond. Basically if sanding is easy than vinylester but if its an area where strength is critical (bracket) epoxy. Not that vinylester won't work but epoxy is much more forgiving of applicator error.

Real good example is if I was replacing my transom from the inside again I would try vinylester on my next go around but if I had to replace it from the outside as in cut the skin off then I would use epoxy.

jasoncooperpcola · #**113** 01-08-2013, 04:49 PM

Got to do a little sanding on the bottom paint today. It is much easier on a flipped hull. Got about half of the port(?) side done. The entire keel is still covered with bottom paint. And it is the worst. My plan to tackle the keel is 40 grit paper and a big fan. This paint is 3/16" thick in spots. I have been chiseling off the thickest and sanding. I just wonder how much weight I am removing. Not to mention all the gel coat damage I have uncovered.

jasoncooperpcola · #**114** 01-13-2013, 05:43 PM

So far the wood chisel is the best tool for removing this paint. Takes quite a bit of elbow grease but its coming off! Working the keel now. Got the bulk off both sides and just have around the strakes left.

jasoncooperpcola · #**115** 01-18-2013, 06:37 PM

Question. My cap has a section by the helm on each side where it steps out about three inches and is about thirty inches tall and about thirty six inches long. Is this to allow clearance for the curve in the hull? I want to remove it.

jasoncooperpcola · #**116** 06-18-2013, 12:50 PM

V20 got wet today! I have a massive leak in the roof.
I have not touched it since I bought my kayak. And also mud riding.

reelapeelin · #**117** 06-19-2013, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola

V20 got wet today! I have a massive leak in the roof.
I have not touched it since I bought my kayak. And also mud riding.

I just reread this entire thread..what an amazing journey...Jason yer gonna have a helluva boat when ya get done...the gel blisters you found are exactly like I found on my '84...had a feelin the guy comin out to look would be high...the pilot FRONT on the center console looks like a way to go to me...protection w/out excessive weight..and whatever ya wanna enclose after that, can be done w/canvas & eisenglass(removable)...goin' way back in the thread; swooping the bracket up and putting the tabs on the stern of the boat seems to me the best solution...I expect lots of thought since those thoughts were posted...I keep thinkin about twins on a V20 and cannot add it up...Spareparts pointed out never expect ONE of a pair of twins to plane the boat up in case the other has failed...if it does, it's PROPPED IMPROPERLY...this made sense after he explained twins are propped to work as twins...JMHO, but a big HP single w/a 15-25 HP kicker w/steering link to main engine for get-home if ever needed...I also think the get-home motor should have its own fuel supply in case the main fuel supply is disabled or contaminated...

One other thing...age old difference of opinion; you mentioned buying Marine grade ply...I think you can save yourself some moiney and buy regular plywood for coring...the whole idea is to isolate (seal off) what ever core material whether wood or foam from getting wet at all...if all your glass work is done right, you really shouldn't need Marine Grade...

Keep the great pix comin'!!

jasoncooperpcola · #**118** 06-20-2013, 03:13 PM

Thanks Reel! I know what I want her to be. Its just having the time and money to do it. Working two jobs and going to school does not leave alot of time. I have been fishing at night. I am about to lose my ATV due to my bank being crooks. So I will work on the boat while saving cash for another quad.

I am still undecided on my outboard situation. More than likely the V20 will become a mothership for kayaks in bluewater fishing. I watched a guy at school work on a Reef Runner. What an idiot. His foam was wet so he tore the floor out and all the foam. He then decided computer packaging foam was ok to use. I wont even go into all the details. He would not listen to any advice. I do not want my build to be like that!

jasoncooperpcola · #**119** 07-16-2013, 06:03 PM

Here's another pretty cool idea for a console design.

jasoncooperpcola · #**120** 09-28-2013, 12:03 PM

Well my buddy needed to borrow my boat trailer. So the 18 Fish has been sitting on it. Got it unloaded and was checking tire pressure and the right front tire moved a bit when I put the air chuck on it. Pulled the cap and nut and the bearing fell onto the ground in pieces. Checked the others and all the seals are eat up by rusted spindles. So I need 2 axles, 4 hubs, 4 springs, and a couple new cross members because they are rusted out. Also need a new tonque .