Mercury 2.5L 200 rigging questions - Page 4

phatdaddy · #31 06-18-2012, 10:00 PM

might want to check your gps, some give volt readings, i use that as a gauge on my 13 whaler.

jasoncooperpcola · #32 06-18-2012, 10:30 PM

I think mine does Phat, but i usually run it off my livewell battery. Dad never wanted it hooked to the motor battery, it would blink sometimes when cranking the motor, and he thought it might be bad for the gps. Good idea, but does anybody have a problem like that with their gps on the motor battery?

jasoncooperpcola · #33 06-21-2012, 08:06 AM

Update, i got a Mercury Commander 4501 binnacle control. Its very smooth without cables. Not impressed with the price once i opened it up. But thats the case with all new controls. I will get cables once i get the bracket and console done so i can accuratly deteermine length. So far i am very happy with my motor choice. No way i could have afforded an Optimax. For now i am done buying parts. I need to use what money i have left on house repairs.

RidgeRunner · #34 06-21-2012, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola

I think mine does Phat, but i usually run it off my livewell battery. Dad never wanted it hooked to the motor battery, it would blink sometimes when cranking the motor, and he thought it might be bad for the gps. Good idea, but does anybody have a problem like that with their gps on the motor battery?

My GPS/Engine and nearly everything else runs on whatever battery I switch to. Never had the GPS turn off while cranking the engine on any of the boats Garmin 2006, Lowrance HDS7, and Lowrance C68 so far. All of which tell voltage. Flats boat doesn't have a volt gauge, just Tach and Water Pressure.

Smartcrafts should carry a warning label, "Owners need to be smarter than their gauges" New set still in the box Spare..

jasoncooperpcola · #35 06-21-2012, 10:18 PM

Got bored, and stuck the controls and hydraulic steering on the console, to see what mods need to be done. It seems the steering wheel is too far up, and the control handle bottoms out reverse and forward. I might build an angled binnacle pod onto the console. I do plan on extending the top of the console to make room for electronics. Gauges are going on the angled section above the wheel and the space between the steering wheel and control will be for switches.

Below are some pics of the setup and the outboard.

RidgeRunner · #36 06-22-2012, 06:23 AM

Controls might not bottom out when the cables are installed on both ends. The limit to the throw is actually adjusted at the motor for WOT. There is also a mounting kit for the steering that allows the pump to be mounted from the back side of the dash. Three kits avail. here Round Bezel, Backmount and wedge mount, depending on your model. Looks like it would work. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+Tilt+Steering

jasoncooperpcola · #37 06-22-2012, 08:51 AM

Will the helm even work at this angle? I will build a binnacle pod, also gives a good place for key and kill switch. I might go ahead and fab a box under the dash for the steering to mount in.

jasoncooperpcola · #38 06-27-2012, 08:22 PM

I have decided to forfeit the center console idea for now. The boat has worked for me in the past and if doesn't now then i will start wacking the cuddy off.

I will build a bracket, close the transom, and try to work a transom door into it. I want to cut the entire splashwell section out, and extend the sole all the way to the transom, then for deck drainage i want to try using the 2x8 door scuppers that drain thru the transom. I think its the best solution.

I have to figure out how to make the binnacle control work on a side console now. I want to rebuild the entire console to make it work for what i want. I don't care for an almost vertical steering wheel, but i imagine Wellcraft did that due to space.

I know i just got way off topic, just thinking outloud. Right now the windshield is off, the rubrail is off, and i have half the bottom paint left to remove. The boat is almost ready for the liner to be lifted out. Once i get caught up financially y'all be ready for the build thread!

Randall220 · #39 07-02-2012, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola

Got bored, and stuck the controls and hydraulic steering on the console, to see what mods need to be done. It seems the steering wheel is too far up, and the control handle bottoms out reverse and forward. I might build an angled binnacle pod onto the console. I do plan on extending the top of the console to make room for electronics. Gauges are going on the angled section above the wheel and the space between the steering wheel and control will be for switches.

Below are some pics of the setup and the outboard.

I have the same type of motor only mine is a 93. This is my second season with the motor and she runs great! I'm quite the newbie with this sort of stuff, but have found that most of the fixes, ( thermostats, wires, basic maint,) i've been able to do myself thru the manual. I'm glad someone mentioned to avoid that pressure tube on there for a speed guage. I've heard horror stories of tubes breaking.

jasoncooperpcola · #40 07-03-2012, 08:07 AM

What kind of speed are you getting with your 2.5? Neither am i an expert but this site has helped me alot. Originally i wanted to repower with a 225 Optimax. But i decided on the 2.5L 200 after some prodding from members here. I am glad i got a simple motor now. The only water line i should be running into my dash is water pressure, and i hope it doesn't bite me in the rear. As for repairs so far it needs two thermostats, and i am replacing everything on the poppet valve assembly. The wee stream is almost scalding hot. One of the thermostats came apart and luckily everything got stuck in the thermo cover. After this i am changing thr water pump and gear oil. Is it true these lower units weigh at a hundred pounds?