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			#21  
			
			
			
			
			
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			hahaha Macojoe, I gotta take a leaf outta your book and change my tactics. Your system is pure genius!        | 
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			#22  
			
			
			
			
			
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			What ever I can do to help!!     
				__________________ 1986 V20  Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! | 
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			#23  
			
			
			
			
			
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			you are priceless maco,I am gona tell on you :)    | 
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			#24  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Yes the twin cable system is cheaper than the Sea star hydraulic system. That is what I thought... I had a old stiff cable system. Replaced the cable and let me tell you that removing that   was painful. I had to take a hack saw to get it out. Putting the new one in was a little better. It was still stiff but not as bad as it was. One season of use then it was back rock hard steering. So dreading the removal and re installation of a new cable again.  I bought the bay star hydraulic system for 500 bucks. I think the hard part of it was cutting out the old cable system again. Installation was a breeze! I think total time to remove old cable system and install the new system took a little under 4 hours. The only thing that I didn't like was the fact they include in the kit plastic tubing for the fluid lines. I did the install a little over a year ago and I haven't seen any leakage. I do recommend if you do this install instead of using the clear fluid they include with the kit. Get a gallon of MIL-H-5606 from your local airport, or order on the internet. So if you do have a leak in the system you can spot easily due to the red color of the hydraulic fluid. | 
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			#25  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I'll second the Baystar recommendation. It was one of my improvements last year and I'll never own a boat with cables again.
		 
				__________________ 2005 Grady White Tournament 225 with a 2011 Yamaha f250 | 
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			#26  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I will go with the Hyd system---spend the extra money--it is not that much---you will enjoy it that much more. I put in a top of the line NFB Teleflex dual cable system--it worked and was adequate for the job---But just put on a Marol Hydraulic system--never turning back--WOW is all I can say. Wish I had not wasted the money on the cable system and put the hyd on first. Live and learn---so do not do a "me"--do a I learned from "me"  The difference in the Baystar or the seastar and the Marol is the Pump--instead of bushings on the shaft--they use Bearings on the shaft and the cylinder is awesome--same dollar for dollar--step up to the better pump--I have mine set at 4.5 turns lock to lock to. 
				__________________ 200 G2 Last edited by Genie Aye; 04-22-2011 at 05:52 PM. | 
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			#27  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I put in a no feed back system on our V last winter. It's has a heavier feeling when when docking but while underway it works great. Hydraulic would be better but NFB works just fine. Hell..... I have a dockmate that put a hydraulic system on a 13' Whaler over the winter!   
				__________________ Regards Barry 1987 V20 (sold) :( 1996 23' Wellcraft 1991 V20 ;) | 
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			#28  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I had cable with 150 hp on my Mako - torque steering when the engine was turned from standing start a hassle. Anyway.........went with SeaStar hydro steering when I installed a 200hp and WOW what a difference !!! Well worth it. | 
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			#29  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I don't recomend the baystar on anything above 115 hp even though its rated for 150. The cylinders are a pain to rebuild, usually cost more to rebuild than to replace(they get full of corrosion), the early baystar helms were plastic and they give a lot of problems. I've installed several UFlex systems with out any issues, I haven't seen the moral, I'll have to give it a look
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			#30  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I love my hydraulic system.
		 
				__________________ 1987 Dual Console / 2007 200 hp E-Tec | 
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