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#21
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I'm surprised the inner skin was that thin....even more surprised that the outer skin was that thick....usually, the skins of a core are closer to being equal....I guess not with the wellcraft.....With epoxy, you don't need to grind the new glass...just sanding with 80 grit and a wipedown with alcohol will make it ready for a new skin, if needed.
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87 Fisherman 20 |
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#22
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Yes same on mine as outer skin was pretty thick and inner skin looked like what I am using but the gel coat they sprayed on it makes it look a tad thicker.
I think with thick epoxy I used to glue in the 2 3/4'' ply's and the extra tabs should be good but I do hang a 200hp off of this sport 20, so I might run a sheet where the motor bolts go and tie into the stringers and add a few more tabs to tie in more to the sides again. I do want to beef this up as I do want to venture a few miles offshore. On another note do you think I will have any issues adding a 30 gal tank directly in front of the original tank? There is an empty space that I want to add another tank to give me more distance for longer trips. |
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#23
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My V has a plate on the inside where the motor is attached. It was put on by the shop where the previous owner had his boat maintained. The core is still ok, so I'm thinking there was a little flex issue. And its a 150 motor.
Anyway, if you're thinking about beefing it up at the bolt area and tabbing the corners, you might as well just run another sheet across the whole thing and come around the corners and be done with it....sanding a flat, wide area like that won't take much more time with a ROS and 80 grit. And an additional tank?? You can probably fit one but you're getting to the "slim" area of the boat...not sure you'll have the room for 30 gallons...that's also another 240lbs of weight sloshing around the nose of the boat....not sure what that will do the the boats handling and balance...maybe someone else has done this already and has some feedback on how it went.
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87 Fisherman 20 |
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#24
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New picts, I added another 3/4'' piece in-between the stringers and attached it to the transom, and added more tabs, I am waiting to get more epoxy resin in to do a big sheet across the back. This should make it strong as ever.
I also was able to add another 30 gal Moeller tank directly in front of the old tank, as I cut a few access holes in the floor that I just reglassed but they will be under the console. ![]()
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#25
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Nice, glad you added some more glass. Now tough as nails/never need to worry with it again. You have a bulkhead that I didn't have on my 1983, just in front of the fuel tank. I installed a 13 gallon fresh water tank and pump there. No ill effects on handling that I could see. I moved some weight up front for the addition of a bracket, hoping the balance was right. Is there enough room to run the fill and vent lines under the liner? or are you going to do something else?
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#26
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Quote:
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#27
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Is the old tank the bigger poly tank and the new 30 is on the right? I never knew they came in poly from the factory...mine is aluminum......is there enough room for expansion? I think you need to expect about a 3-5% expansion of a poly tank...and you need to vent the compartment as well as the tanks actually breath and emit fumes....thats great the way you fit it in......this is gonna be a nice rebuild.
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87 Fisherman 20 |
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#28
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I'll post a new pict later but the 30gal tank is on the left it is the lighter color one and it sits in front of the stock tank.
The old tank is twice as deep as it is a 60gal tank. There is room to put rubber straps around the tank like the original. I guess it will just vent from the cut outs in the floor under the console, that's all the stock tank has. |
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#29
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Update Got the new 30 gal tank in and top lid glued down good.
now touching up gel coat and starting reassembly. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#30
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Moving along pretty well. What is next?
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