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#1
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I bought a new I/O 350 chevy motor, installed it and it has been running good. I went to reset the valves and found water in the oil. I changed out both risers and the stbd exhaust manifold when I put the new motor in. I looked at the old exhaust manifold (port side) and cant find anything but I'm going to change it out anyway. I did a compression test and they were between 180-190 psi. I pulled the intake and did a hydro test (estimate 25psi) on the motor and didn't see or hear any leaks. when I pulled the water hose off 15 minutes later it it still had a lot of pressure on it.
During the winter like now (outside water temps 45 dgs) my motor (this one and previous one) never gets any heat in it, the temp gauge never reaches 100 degress. I've changed the thermostat (165) and temp sensor and it stills read the same. Has anyone ever had a intake manifold get a crack in it? None of my gaskets looked like they were leaking. The back water passage on each side the intake is blocked off, the intake gasket for that area is solid except for one small hole in it (both sides). Could I be getting condensation build-up caused by cold temp and then it's building up from my fishing trips until it looks like a major water problem or is something wrong with the intake or gasket or it could be my exh manifold.
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Tis better to be quiet and thought a fool than open your mouth and prove it!! 1991 V-20 cuddy I/O 350 volvo duo prop, 1998 15ft Grumman 9.9 Johnson
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#2
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sound like you checked everything, I usually pressure test the engine with the intake still in place, just remove the manifold and riser hose, loop them over to the opposite side of the thermostat housing and pressure the block thru the intake hose.
yes, i have seen intakes crack, if you flip it over and look at the water crossover, you might see a crack, you may have to remove the metal pan on the bottom of the intake to see all the crossover. With your engine temp being so low, condensation could be your problem, seen it happen before, any idea what the engine oil temp is? Remember, that oil has to get to 212 for it to boil all the moisture out of the oil. Does your engine have an oil cooler? I've seen them leak water into oil before, and if it has been added aftermarket, it may be doing more harm than good by not allowing the oil to get up to operating temp Check your temp gauge, it should be reading higher than 100 if the thermostat is operating correctly, place your hand on top of the housing after the engine has been run up to temp, you should be able to put your hand on it, but it should feel pretty warm, allmost too hot to keep it there. Harbour freight has those laser temp guns pretty cheap now, buy or borrow one and check teh temp iat the cross over and after the thermostat housing |
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#3
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Hey Spare
I don't have a oil cooler, I have a temp gun so the only way I could tell the oil temp is run it and pull the dip stick and check it that way. If I don't see a leak (crack) in the area above the lifters could there be a leak inside? Should I pull the oil drain plug and see if I get water running out when I hydro it? I couldn't hear any water dripping inside, but I don't know that I would. The spark plugs looked ok just a little dark like running rich (the front 2 cyl on each side were rich the back 2 looked good. If no water is getting in thru the cyls then that would mean the exh manifold is ok Right? Also If the intake is ok where but thru condensation could I be getting water in the oil? Is the small hole in the intake gasket for the last pocket (back of motor) normal? doesn't water run up to there also on the block? Do you know of a replacement for the intake (brand) is that a car intake? Also what would you use to clean the motor now to get the contaminated oil out? Do you have any suggestions to raise the temp for the winter? I have 160 OR 165 thermostat in there now. Thanks spare for your help.
__________________
Tis better to be quiet and thought a fool than open your mouth and prove it!! 1991 V-20 cuddy I/O 350 volvo duo prop, 1998 15ft Grumman 9.9 Johnson
Last edited by garagenc; 01-06-2008 at 09:13 PM. |
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#4
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I'm not familiar with the VOLVO T-stat housing set-up. Maybe you could post a picture of it for us. I know on the MERCRUISER's many have some sort of check valve set-up that can cause problems. Or you could be putting the T-stat in the wrong spot. I know the T-stat in all of MERCRUISERS doesn't go in the intake itself, it goes inside of the housing and has a spacer under it. The 2 holes you are talking about were used on the 87-95 V8 truck engines for the heat riser ports for the heater core. Small blocks are known to get hot spots in the rear from no water circulating up through the rear of the intake, so GM put the steam riser set-up in to eliminate hot spots in the trucks. Gaskets are available that don't use those holes. What does the water look like in the oil? Is it a slimy film, or actaul water?
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#5
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It looks slimy.
__________________
Tis better to be quiet and thought a fool than open your mouth and prove it!! 1991 V-20 cuddy I/O 350 volvo duo prop, 1998 15ft Grumman 9.9 Johnson
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#6
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Slimy is normally condensation build-up from lack of heat. Really need to make sure you T-stat is set-up right. I have a MERCUISER housing I'll give you for the cost of shipping if you need one.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#7
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shoot the oil pan after a had run, should be about 150 or higher. pressure test the engine with the intake manifold on it, listen in the valve cover or see if the oil level is getting higher. It really sounds like condensation, that motor needs to run hotter than its indicating. I used to work on some high perf motors that the oil ran too cool when they wern't run hard(especially jet boats), and they would allways have condensation in the oil. We tore one motor all teh way down looking for a problem before we figuerd out what was happening. Ended up only needing to build a dog house for the engine(it sat out in the open), it trapped enough heat for the engine to stop condensating and allowed teh hot oil to steam the moisture out. I would make sure the thermostat is installed correctly, that engine should hit the prescibed temp, or at least close to it. Sounds like it is bypassing too much water. What year model and type cooling set up does it have? Center rise or rear hump exhaust? does it have separate hoses leading to the risers? A pic of the engine and a serial number would help. 4, 6 or 8 hose thermostat housing?
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#8
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Quote:
Center rise or rear hump???? My risers are at the center of my exh manifold. Does this help?
__________________
Tis better to be quiet and thought a fool than open your mouth and prove it!! 1991 V-20 cuddy I/O 350 volvo duo prop, 1998 15ft Grumman 9.9 Johnson
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