Trailer Bunk Replacement

Mac_Attack · #1 07-26-2005, 07:10 PM

I noticed this past weekend that some of the screws holding the trailer bunks to the brackets are missing. I'm assuming the wood is rotten and needs to be replaced. Should I use pressure treated 2 x 6s and does the carpeting have to be marine grade? Do you guys have any secret material tips? Thanks Bill Mc ;D

chumbucket · #2 07-26-2005, 08:52 PM

I suggest pressure treated wood. Just a personal choice. I would also recommend hitting Home Cheapo for some indoor/outdoor carpeting to cover with. It's usually cheaper than buying that marine stuff at the marine stores and will probably last as long, if not longer.
MJ and I were just discussing this this afternoon. I'm working on replacing some bunks myself right now.

Mac_Attack · #3 07-26-2005, 08:57 PM

CB were your bunks through bolted (carriage bolts) or lag bolted? *Mine have lags but i'm thinking carriage with the head recessed and carpeted over. *Bill Mc ;D

bigshrimpin · #4 07-26-2005, 11:39 PM

I did this job a while back . . . just like CB said.

pressure treated wood and home cheapo indoor/outdoor (UV resistant) carpet. I used monel staples. They've held up well and look great.

Some people use a carpet glue or even a little epoxy to help the rug stick and stay flat.

reelapeelin · #5 07-26-2005, 11:46 PM

Mac, if you go the carriage bolt route, use a washer under the bolt-head that the square shoulders of the carriage bolt will fit through...w/ out the washer, it's real easy to pull the carriage bolt head THRU the wood when you torque down on the hex-nut...like CB said, go treated...you may never have to pull this repair again... ;) ;D...

Oh yeah...I found some SS staples recently...didn't even need
'em, but HAD to buy 'em...standard T50 size x 3/8", but look for 1/2" for carpet...is Lowe's up in your neck of the woods?... :)...

chumbucket · #6 07-27-2005, 01:35 AM

Mine were lagged into the wood. Through bolt or lag, I don't think it makes too much difference. A little more work through bolting because you need to countersink the topside for the head to be recessed. Not a big deal though. Galv. hardware is fine as well. No need to go with stainless.

Skools Out · #7 07-27-2005, 01:53 AM

Galv. hardware is stromger too. Stainless isn't a stromg metal. I would Through bolt i did mine and they are much stronger. I got my carpet from a local carpet store and just asked if they had any scraps and they gave me so burber which i've found holds up great outside.

Mac_Attack · #8 07-27-2005, 07:30 AM

Thanks guys for your ideas. Its off to Lowes or Home Cheapo for supplies. bill Mc ;D

WiseGuy · #9 07-29-2005, 09:30 AM

Just did mine.
If your going with bolts, you might try 'T-nuts'. They have virtually no profile to countersink especially after tightening and carpeting over. I'm going to lag though.

Carpet - Got it a HD. Paid .44 per sq ft (3.96 per sq yd) It is on 12' rolls and they'll cut it to what you want. The indoor/outdoor carpet was the exact carpet they had at Boater's World. The BW price was 20 for a 2x4 bunk! Same stuff.

Staples - Got the T50's in 1/2" rustproof. Stunned at the price if almost 15 bucks for a pack of staples. Looking for other stapling projects to justify it! Also used carpet adhesive to keep it tight to the wood (treated).

Look just like the above pic from BS. Someday I'll learn to post my own!

Pete

reelapeelin · #10 07-29-2005, 01:01 PM

Wise Guy...sounds like your bunkers are about "bullet-proof"... 8)...

T-Nuts are GREAT little items...used 1/4" SS T's to mount the trollin' motor on the bow...sometime when you're feelin' a little constipated, go in West Marine and check out the price of SS T-Nuts... :o...it'll clear the pipes inna hurry... ;)...come to think of it, maybe perched atop the thundermug w/ a West catalog...same affect; less mess... ;D...