Trailer brakes

rb437 · #1 05-06-2006, 10:19 PM

My trailer has surge brakes that no longer work. All the fluid leaked out awhile back so I'm sure by now rust has taken its place. I think my best bet is to replace the entire system. I'm looking for suggestions on what to do. I usually only drive about a mile to the local boat ramp so living without brakes has been easy. I would like to take my boat to some other areas and feel much better about getting on the highway with brakes. Cost of course is always an issue, but other issues include a steep driveway to back up. My concern with the driveway is that even if I add a reverse cut out, I am still putting a great deal of pressure on the master cylinder when backing up a hill. I've seen electric brakes, and even though my truck is already rigged for electric brakes I'm concerned about the reliablility of anything that combines electricity and salt water. So what do you guys think? Brakes or no brakes?, Electric or hydraulic? 2 wheel or 4 wheel? Disc or drum?

macojoe · #2 05-06-2006, 11:02 PM

What do you have for a truck to tow with?? If you have a full size 1/2 ton, it will weight more then the boat and thats a good thing.
But if you have a light truck like Toyota then you really need breaks!

I bought a Brand new trailer with no brakes cause I hate having to fix them!!! :(

But to each his own! *If I was to do it it would be hydraulic, I don't think you could use electric even if you wanted to.

One axle (front) is all you should need.

Found a complete set up for $398 with everything you need.
They are Tie Downs, some say they are not the best, I forgot the other name they like?

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?CartId={BFBDCB17-EVERESTEB88-424F-8944-61D050C18F18}&ic=62011K&eq=&Tp=

rb437 · #3 05-06-2006, 11:07 PM

Tow vehicle is a 98 Durango. Pulls it fine and stops it fine at low speeds. I've never tried it at highway speeds.

Bygracealone · #4 05-06-2006, 11:53 PM

Rick, I bought a 2006 Durango for the very purpose of having a tow vehicle for my v20. I towed my boat from near Franco's place in FL to Riva, MD (1,000 miles)without trailer brakes and had no problems at all. I barely knew I had something back there. Durangos are great tow vehicles. I don't know much about the Durangos from the 90's, but my guess is that the towing capacity is similar...

If I were to get brakes put on, I would probably go hydraulic only because if you forget to unplug the lights before launching your boat, you can fry the system. That's just one more thing to worry about during launch that you don't want to have to think about.

Anyway, that's my two cents... Steve

pk · #5 05-07-2006, 12:08 AM

I just replaced my entire drum brake system with a set of vented disc brakes by Tie-Down. Paid about 370.00 for everything from Eastern Marine. Installation was pretty straightforward; strip off all the old hardware, clean up the mounting surfaces and bolt the new components on. Have an electricians fish tape handy to pull the new lines through the trailer frame. Tie-Down supplies a flexible rubber brake line that runs from the actuator to the rear of the trailer. My old trailer had a steel line. The rubber is a lot easier to work with. Make sure you have grommets in places where it passes through the frame.
If your state requires trailer safety inspections, they may require brakes based on the GVW of the trailer.
Other options are replacing with drum brakes, (not a great option), going with an electric over hydraulic system, ( $$$$$) or not using any brakes. I had no choice but to have brakes. The Tie-Downs are cheaper than the Kodiak Brakes but for my limited travel, they should be fine.
I will be hitting the road in the morning and will let you know if there are any problems.

reelapeelin · #6 05-07-2006, 10:20 AM

rick, I put Tie-Down SS Discs on all 4 wheels years ago, B4 TD made an actuator(coupler)...at the time I had to use an Attwood coupler which caused MAJOR problems...since I've changed it to a TD 6000 actuator and had no problems, but one thing you MUST understand: the damper in the actuator fills from the brake-fluid reservoir(it's NOT self contained like a shock-absorber)...TD has a new Eliminator series brakes that look much improved over when I bought...

Suggestion, look closely at calipers when installing for when you'll have to replace pads and go ahead and get an extra set of pads when you buy the brakes...you may not have the luxury of shipping time when you need to replace... ;)...

Elec/Hydraulic is for rigs bigger than ours and you'll just be bitin' off a lot of extra BS you don't need...system above will do you fine...no experience with Kodiak, but I hear they are GREAT HD brakes...price and check into service for both B4 U decide... ;)...

#7 05-07-2006, 12:04 PM

I hate to work on trailer brakes. Salt water will kill them and they are a pain in the a##, Get a big tow vehicle and forget about them. Frank

TheTinMan · #8 05-07-2006, 01:55 PM

I've heard Kodiak Stainless Steel is the best way to go.

reelapeelin · #9 05-07-2006, 02:27 PM

I've heard/ read the same...just don't have any 1st hand experience w/ Kodiak...the actuator is such an IMPORTANT part of a bood trailer-brake system and I've come to like this TD6000 a lot...is there another good one out there?....

rb437 · #10 05-07-2006, 08:46 PM

Thanks to all for the input. Anyone know of an actuator I can buy that I can manually lock for reversing but does NOT automatically unlock when pulling forward?