1984 v20

SilentThreat · #1 03-13-2016, 11:32 PM

Hello Forum! I recently took ownership of an 84 V2O center console. Got a pretty good deal on it considering the motor is freshly rebuilt and the trailer is in great condition. I knew from the beginning that I would have to do some work. The floor was soft and the gas hatch was totally rotted. Today I decided to rip the floor up and my suspicions were confirmed. Stringers are totally rotted so they are going to have to come out. I've had little experience with fiberglass and I'll admit, its a little overwhelming, but I've gathered some great info off this site. Here are some pics of the boat and the beginning of the tear down.

Thanks!
Z

Jeb · #2 03-14-2016, 07:10 AM

Ugh... looks like a big job. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress and how long it takes.

SilentThreat · #3 03-14-2016, 12:53 PM

Definitely a big job. Not really in a hurry though. I have a buddy that commercial spearfishes down here so I can hitch a ride whenever I want. Whats that saying? "Better to know someone with a boat than actually own one"?lol. I guess im hard headed.
Im really thinking about taking the cap off and making my own. Much like Kracker Jack's boat. That thing is a beauty. Im all in so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Z

SkunkBoat · #4 03-14-2016, 02:41 PM

I was going to suggest cap off but I see you cut the deck already.
I'm surprised that the '84 cc has foam between stingers, my '84 cuddy does not'

I did my transom with pourable compound and I'm very happy with it.

For my next project I'm thinking cap off full resto & paint.
Thinking of using pourable for stringers. Instead of cutting out all of the stringer and having to tab in all new stringers with wood,you could cut the tops, hollow out with chain saw and clean to glass, then fill with pourable compound and glass over. The expense of the pourable material will be offset by needing less glass and resin and time. And the original bond of the glass to hull will still be there.

Just something to think about...

Welcome and post lots of picks.

bgreene · #5 03-14-2016, 03:25 PM

I like your suggestion Skunk - seems like a way to solidify the hull while maintaining the current integrity...... Perhaps only issue might be connection between stringers and hull remains weak based on rotten ends, where pourable doesn't contact ? Maybe not.

SilentThreat · #6 03-14-2016, 07:09 PM

I never thought that was possible! thanks skunk definitely something to think about. Im trying to do a little every day. Ill definitely post more pics as it goes along.

Thanks!
Z

spareparts · #7 03-14-2016, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

I was going to suggest cap off but I see you cut the deck already.
I'm surprised that the '84 cc has foam between stingers, my '84 cuddy does not'

I did my transom with pourable compound and I'm very happy with it.

For my next project I'm thinking cap off full resto & paint.
Thinking of using pourable for stringers. Instead of cutting out all of the stringer and having to tab in all new stringers with wood,you could cut the tops, hollow out with chain saw and clean to glass, then fill with pourable compound and glass over. The expense of the pourable material will be offset by needing less glass and resin and time. And the original bond of the glass to hull will still be there.

Just something to think about...

Welcome and post lots of picks.

thought about doing the same many times, talked myself out of it do to weight. If I ever do another one I'm going to cut the top of the stringers off, chainsaw the wood out. cut foam or pour foam till it fills where the wood was, lay cloth over the foam/glass stringer all the way to the hull to have an all glass stringer. I've talked with several boat builders and they tell me the majority of the strength in the stringers(if its done correct by the manufactures) is in the glass, not the wood. The wood merey gives them a form to lay the glass over

BTW, epoxy works magazine has an article about floor/stringer replacement this quarter http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/cockpit-sole-repair/

SkunkBoat · #8 03-14-2016, 09:04 PM

CarbonCore weighs about the same as AB grade douglas fir plywood. It is made with polyester resin and filler "micro-beads" to make it lightweight.
A good thing is that is completely fills the stringer space. If you use wood you have to use polyester filler to avoid gaps.

Yes the strength is from the sandwich of the glass with the core, whether its plywood, balsa, foam or other. The bond is important. If the bond between the sandwich is lost, it loses most of its strength.
You can't just stuff it with dry foam and you need a pourable foam that bonds with the glass/poly resin. Or maybe there is a brand of sheet foam that can be glassed like a piece of lumber and then glassed into the hollowed out stringer space? hmmm...?

I like that the CarbonCore (Arjay/NidaCore) does not soak up water. If you use the closed cell foam it will eventually soak up water. How much and how quickly depends on a lot of variables. Same with wood. All it takes is one screw hole or a bilge drain pass through that isn't glassed(the main problem on V20s)

The insulated fish box on the V20 is a good example. It is glass over foam. Mine was completely soaked due to years of water thru screw holes. The glass separated from the foam and the floor of the fish box was flimsy.