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#1
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Been considering the after market torsion keys and some small blocks for the rear. The blocks of course are nothing new but Ive never done the keys this way? I just want to get her up a hair for more tire clearance and maybe put on some 285's. Thought?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORGED-TORSI...b3fa93&vxp=mtr
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? |
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#2
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Here is a before and after with the same lift on the same truck. He went with 285's as well. Looks alot better IMO.
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? |
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#3
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I like the new look also!! I did that in my truck, the issue with mine was I used alot of U Joints cause of the angle of the drive shaft after. Front also was a bit stiffer then I liked also.
But that kit looks good and CHEAP! On my last 2 trucks I put 2500 springs in the rear, and a leveling kit in the front, I like that set up much better! Got a 2" lift that way and much better tow with the 3/4 tn springs the the 1/2 ton.
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#4
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Love it. That is how it should have come from the factory. Only reason I haven't done anything with mine is the fact that it is 2WD and a pavement princess at that..
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1996 -19' NV Flats 115 Mercury 4-stroke 1983 -20' Wellcraft Center Console 250 XS |
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#5
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my experience w IFS chevy's is that you don't need the keys... the stock keys when cranked all the way up will put the suspension high enough that you start hitting the upper bump stops on every little bump in the road and get an uncomfortable ride... Generally if you crank the bolts in till you have about 1/2" sticking out it is as high as it can get and maintain a comfy ride without buying a "real" kit with new control arms.
You can experiment easily for free.. just crawl under and crank em up and test drive |
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#6
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I was going to try that first, just heard bad things about cranking them too much and didnt know how mush it would lift it. I need the rear up anyways from the heavy tool box in the rear...may try and crank the front and just put block in the rear.
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie? |
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#7
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Buying lift keys are a waste of money. The stock keys will do the same thing when cranked up. The problem with these budget lifts is you will eat upper ball joints and upper control arm bushings for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner. unless your willing to put on a set of cognito upper control arms, then only slightly crank the torsion bars up. If you have the right wheels then most don't need to crank the bars much at all to run 285/75/16's. I have only seen a few that needed cranking at all. if this is a daily driver, then I HIGHLY recommend going with an actual lift kit because with cranked torsion bars your CV's are going to wear fairly quickly.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#8
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WHS
I generally crank em up just enough to raise the front of the truck an inch or so Then you MIGHT consider air bags on the rear.... adjustable is NICE! |
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