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#1
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Great link to bedding your boats hardware
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/r...ardware&page=1
Heres a pretty straight forward article on bedding your boats hardware, I will be using the same technique on mine. 
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#3
01-19-2013, 10:10 AM
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I am pretty good at making a mess with butyl tape on a steel building roof so I imagine it would be even worse with the boat. You can also bed hardware with epoxy but it would be considered permanent.
__________________
1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage.
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#4
01-19-2013, 11:51 AM
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Jason, I think thats his point. I like the fact that its stay semi flexible and doesnt have a high adhesion. the 4200 and 5200 product I have used and you will tear some stuff removing it. Ofcourse like he says 5200 does have its place on a boat like bedding t-tops and other things. My cleats,electronic brackets rodholders and outrigger recievers will be done with the butyl tape. My dad has a crap load of gray at his house.
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#5
01-19-2013, 06:22 PM
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My rear cleats will be attached to the transom. Seeing as how I do not want bolts and nuts sticking out my transom I plan to screw the cleats to the transom and bed in epoxy. But I can see the butyl tapes use on non structural components. Maybe not rod holders. I have ripped many out so mine might end up in epoxy. No matter what the chamferde holes is ingenious. Its all very good info. But it all comes back to sealing any exposed core with epoxy. If water cant get in it cant wreak havoc. I picked up a West Systems book on boat repair and it has been a valuable tool.
__________________
1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage.
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#6
01-19-2013, 06:31 PM
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Jason I stand corrected my cleats will be also attached to my transom. I'm gonna have hawse pipes thru the cap. I want my cap slick!!!!
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#7
01-19-2013, 06:52 PM
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A couple of thoughts on the beveling process...if I have several holes to do in one project, while he mentions changing from bit to bit, I like to use more than one drill motor; one for the drill bit, one for the counter-sink bit and a third for a phillips head bit for the fastener itself...while I have for years, beveled FASTENER holes intended for a wood type screw to thread into, I never thought to bevel a CLEARANCE hole for a machine screw to pass through..it makes sense as it does away with that 90* edge of the hole which is easily cracked and provides for a bit more sealant where it counts...I've never used Butyl Tape, but it sure looks like a good idea in some installations...but not below the waterline...
A couple of times w/just a couple of holes to bevel, I have used the tip of a phillips head screwdriver...twisted back and forth between your opens palms, it quickly takes that 90 off the edge...once I couldn't find my countersink bit, I put a phillips bit in the drill motor and it worked fine... One thing I'd like to ask him; If beveling reduces cracking and failed seals(which I agree it does), does he ever bevel outside AND INSIDE of through holes...if not, why not?
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha 
Last edited by reelapeelin; 01-19-2013 at 07:17 PM.
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