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#1
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I'd really appreciate some input on a 1996 Cherokee Classic 4WD with automatic transmission, AC and 4.0HO engine.
About mid summer I kept noticing the temperature gauge seemed to be reading a little higher than the normal 210 degrees while driving around town for brief 15 minute trips. But after about 30 minutes of intown or interstate driving the temperature would climb to about 230 degrees. Running with the AC on or off seemed to make no difference. ![]() While sitting in the yard with the engine at 2000rpms, I can make the electric fan come on at about 235 degrees. As it also does when the AC is on. I'm still having this problem with daytime high temperatures of 80 degrees and less. And there is no evidence of coolant contamination. Here's a list of things replaced so far. 180 degree thermostat Radiator Catalytic converter, muffler and tail pipe Fan clutch Water pump Temperature sending unit Any ideas???
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#2
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have you actually put a thermometer or a heat gun on it to see if the temp is accurate?
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#3
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No I haven't spare thanks, I might as well get one and see.
I figured since the electric fan comes on so close to the gauge reading it might be close.
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#4
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Maybe you need to go to a lower temp thermostat?
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1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage. |
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#5
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It had a 195 degree in it for at least 2 years before the overheating indication and it stayed around 210 degrees.
Got the same vehicle but a year newer with a 180 thermostat and it stays at about 210.
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#6
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Pull a compression test on your cylinders. These engines are just about bulletproof, but I've seen several of them with bad head gaskets. I had just about the same problem on my 98 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Turned out to be a bad head gasket between number 2 and number 3 cylinders. Fairly easy to replace, just a PITA.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#7
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Lower temp t-stats NEVER stop overheating, it ONLY makes it take longer to overheat.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#8
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Thanks FERM, the sensor I replaced is the one at the rear drivers side that disabled the temperature gauge when disconnected. The one at the thermostat housing initiated the electric fan and set off the check engine light when disconnected.
New radiator and no build up in the old one, replaced it anyway. The condenser does have a few flat fins and a fair amount of gravel lodged in it but I can see through a very high percentage of it to the radiator. This animal has never lost coolant or gave any of the normal overheat indications except for the gauge. I'm aware of the air blockage especially on the ones that have the funny looking tank. This one has the regular old overflow type. My next thought was to replace the condenser, basically because of the elimination process order I've replaced prior. Then pull the head and replace the gasket if that don't help. First I'm gonna do like spare suggested and see if I can determine if the gauge is close to correct. Keep throwing this stuff this way please!
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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