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#1
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Hi all, I have been floating around for a little while and had forgotten my username and password so I am under a new name but still new to the posting side of things. You may have seen my boat when the”turbinedoctor” posted it from when we ran into each other in the bay last summer.
Here is my dilemma: I have 1985 Fisherman20 that has the factory full transom/seadrive. It had a custom bracket made for it and it had a 200 mercury saltwater that I was so happy when it finally blew up. (not a merc fan at all!). However, I started lookin into getting a new motor when I thought well, before I spend a ton of money on a motor, I need to check out the transom and stringers. Last spring I re-did the whole outside ( Sanding, grinding out spider cracks, filling, new rub rail, new bottom paint, new outside paint etc..) Long story short I have completely redone the stingers and transom. Transom – I cut a piece of ¾ ply into three pieces(all covered in 3 coats of west) to find the curve in the transom. I thickend (403) some west and applied it to the wood and existing fiberglass skin. They where through bolted with threaded rod and 2x6 squares. Once dry, a layer of 1708 biaxial 0/90 kevlar reinf. with 3/4oz mat on back (overkill? got a good deal on 75yd x 50” roll)was applied. Once dry I removed the threaded bolts sanded a little, then glued a solid ¾ piece of ply and thru bolted as well. Once dry it received 2 layers of the cloth. Stringers are two pieces of 3/4 ply laminated together with West system and a layer of 1708 biaxial Kevlar cloth with the .75oz mat on the back. They where glued to the boat and 3 layers of the same fabric to encapsulate/tabbed to hull. I am in the process of installing the floor, redoing the console, and desiging the fish box to go in the transom. The gas tank will be moved forward along with the console and lean post and batteries will be installed inside the new console. As for the console I cut off the side rod holders and front seat to provide more room on the deck and allow me to move it forward. Yes I will post pics if someone shows me here soon. Now for the big question now that you have the history. I have an opportunity to get a 225 4stroke Yamaha. At 583lbs im wondering if this will be over kill. It is the same weight as the 200 4 stroke. I have an incredibly strong transom as well as kneeboards which are 1.5” thick like the stringers. Considering the tank will be move forward 2.5 feet, batteries inside console and everything will be moved forward 2 feet do you think the 225 will be too heavy? Oh and the floor is .5 inch higher and scuppers have been filled in so I have a fresh pallet for the self-bail system. Sorry for the long story but after floating for a year and reading some of the post I knew all of these questions would somehow arise. 112 man hours spent so far and $1800. But it sure beats the heck out of buying one of the new plastic boats for $40k. Plus you cant find lines like these anywhere Thanks for the input. |
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#2
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you will be highly disapointed with a f225 on the back. i sell them and the are lethargic at best. also with out trim tabs you will be launching off nice size waves like a jet ski.
p.s. let me know if you want to give the merc away :) |
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#3
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I sold the merc. the piston went through the block. Actually got 1k for it. It was a 2001. I have trim tabs BTW. When i had the merc and that make shift livewell in the deck filled to the brim plus some spilt over in the bilge. i hardly noticed a difference in the ride.
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#4
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if you wanted a submarine i would say you right on target!! Way to much weight and power for that boat, but hey to each his own, hey why not go with twins
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#5
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Twins would be heavier then the 4 stroke. and probably faster...?
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#6
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And are you saying the boat isnt going to float with the stronger glass? not sure of the submarine comment?
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#7
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DON'T DO IT!!!!
A member here had a 225 HONDA transom mounted and it was too heavy for his center console. The boat had VERY poor performance numbers and just never did what it should have. If going with a bracket I would look to what DUSKY has done with there 203 as it is based off of the V-20 hull(but slightly changed to work with a bracket). Also consider moving your fuel tank forward and putting your batteries in the very bow if your going with a bracketed CC. I would be looking at a 200 small block ETEC if your going new, or a 175 OPTIMAX. 4 strokes are going to be on the heavy side with your bracketed boat unless you go on the low side with HP like a 140 SUZUKI or 150 YAMAHA. I would try and keep the engine weight under 400 and use a shorter set-back bracket and make a notch in the transom to clear the engine cowling(or just not trim it up all the way).
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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