Hey CB!!...

[reelapeelin]

You had a great post a WHILE back on epoxy mounting a transducer in the bilge...do you mind runnin that procedure by us one mo time?...tested it w/Vasaline?......can it be mounted up the boats angle a little left or right of the keel or does it have to be in the bottom?

[chumbucket]

Hey Oz. Since then I've used a new method from some of the kayak guys. I used this method in my kayak and it works great.
The transducer can be mounted to the left or right of the keel without too much of a problem as far as the beam angle. Of course there will be a variance offset to that side, but generally only a small amount.
In the kayaks we use Lexel to adhere to the Polyethelyne hull. In a fiberglass boat I would use 5200 to seal the 4' PVC coupling to the bilge (clean well before hand of course).

Next wedge the transducer into the PVC coupling. Some guys run a screw through the sidewall above the 'ducer to hold it down if it doesn't wedge into place and then seal the screw with more 5200.
Use one of these rubber Quik-Cap's with a small hole to force feed the 'ducer wire through. Most just cut a small X in the cap to get it through.

Next fill the coupling with water. Hold the 'ducer wire and push the Quik-Cap down onto the coupling to seal.

With kayaks being constantly lifted, flipped over and mounted on their sides, the water in the coupling lasts a long time and can be easily refilled. Boats don't get flipped (hopefully) and the water stays permanently.
The Vaseline or Silicone method works good too, but I found the Vaseline gets soupy and runny in hot weather. There is also a chance that you get an air pocket or air bubbles with Vaseline/Silicone. The water eliminates that problem and provides constant readings all the time.
Hope that helps Bud.

[reelapeelin]

Well I be...that's a new one alright...don't know if I'll be able to use it cause of the plug on end of the ducer cable...won't go thru such a small hole and a bigger hole will bounce and leak the water away over time...gonna have to study on that...will a bed of epoxy do the job?...mounted on angle, but shooting straight down?......if so, any particular kind of epoxy (marine ?) I need to look for?...Thanks for all the helpage...

[macojoe]

BS just did a ducer shooting thur the hull, I think he used silicone?? I will call him and tell him to look here

[bigshrimpin]

Originally Posted by reelapeelin

You had a great post a WHILE back on epoxy mounting a transducer in the bilge...do you mind runnin that procedure by us one mo time?...tested it w/Vasaline?......can it be mounted up the boats angle a little left or right of the keel or does it have to be in the bottom?

Reel - The way I mounted the transducer was to prep the bilge (sand flat, acetone, and fill any rough surfaces that could potentially trap air. The I took the transducer and made a wall of clay 2" deep around the perimeter. The bottom of the tranducer will look like a cereal bowl. Then I filled the entire bowl with silicon. Once that is done you can position the transducer in place. The clay walls will shape to any angle you desire and hold the unit at the proper angle until the silicone is cured (takes about 5 days to fully cure). Once the silicone is cured you can peel off the clay and you have a perfect puck that is removable (if necessary).

Just remember to slide the transducer into place and make sure no air pockets are formed when you put the ducer in place.

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by bigshrimpin

Reel - The way I mounted the transducer was to prep the bilge (sand flat, acetone, and fill any rough surfaces that could potentially trap air. The I took the transducer and made a wall of clay 2" deep around the perimeter. The bottom of the tranducer will look like a cereal bowl. Then I filled the entire bowl with silicon. Once that is done you can position the transducer in place. The clay walls will shape to any angle you desire and hold the unit at the proper angle until the silicone is cured (takes about 5 days to fully cure). Once the silicone is cured you can peel off the clay and you have a perfect puck that is removable (if necessary).

Just remember to slide the transducer into place and make sure no air pockets are formed when you put the ducer in place.

I like that too!!...decisions decisions!! ...are you talkin about just regular silicone outta the tube or anything specific?...sounds like a good amount of silicone...can you use bathroom type silicone from Lowes or does it have to be a better grade?

[chumbucket]

Originally Posted by reelapeelin

Well I be...that's a new one alright...don't know if I'll be able to use it cause of the plug on end of the ducer cable...won't go thru such a small hole and a bigger hole will bounce and leak the water away over time...gonna have to study on that...will a bed of epoxy do the job?...mounted on angle, but shooting straight down?......if so, any particular kind of epoxy (marine ?) I need to look for?...Thanks for all the helpage...

That's why you cut the X in the rubber cap. It really doesn't leak like you think it would. I store my kayak in straps on it's side and I loose very little water. You can always cut the bottom of the PVC coupling in a V to fit the keel of the hull. Then epoxy it with 5200.

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by chumbucket

That's why you cut the X in the rubber cap. It really doesn't leak like you think it would. I store my kayak in straps on it's side and I loose very little water. You can always cut the bottom of the PVC coupling in a V to fit the keel of the hull. Then epoxy it with 5200.

The 21 has two bilges...forward one, just aft of the fuel tank is where the bilge-pump is located center-line...that's the only one I would try to do this as aft bilge is quite difficult to access...anyway, there's no place on the keel to do it...it'll have to be up the hill to port side as water intake is starboard and probably causes some turbulence...anyway, I'm goin to Lowes tomorrow and get the PVC and a cap...thinking of painting the X cut where the cable goes thru w/liquid electrical tape...Thanks a ton, CB!!...really appreciate all the pics!!

[chumbucket]

Hey reel. In thinking back and looking at the pics. I think what I did on the rubber cap was drill a hole first for a tight fit on the wire diameter. Then I made one slice with a utility knife across the hole for the plug end. The once it's pulled down tight, the slice fits back together evenly. Probably would hurt to smear the top of the cap with some goop like your thinking afterward.
I think I'm going to use this method in the new Scout (if it ever gets finished and I can bring it home....).

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by chumbucket

I think I'm going to use this method in the new Scout (if it ever gets finished and I can bring it home....).

Thanks for the idea...and I believe "Message Sent!!"...