what to check to get a 225 91 rude started?

[bcraigan]

Ok... here's the deal. Got all the old gas gone out of my tank today and loaded new gas. I turned the starer briefly before doing the gas removal to check the batteries and it was good. Even turned over once. Removed gas, go to start the engine and nothing... It still tilts and trims, still cuts guages on, still will beep the horn, and I can hear it engage the choke when I pushed it in, but can't even get a pop now in regards to it turning over and starting..>

I fear I pulled something loose, or something like that.. Any ideas where to start, or fuses to check? Thanks.

[phatdaddy]

make sure it is in neutral?

[bcraigan]

Yeah.. I wish it was that simple... tried that.... keep the ideas coming though

[tsubaki]

Umkay, much, many things to run through!
Check the batteries with a load tester.
Check terminal connections at batteries and solenoid.
Whack solenoid while someone else is attempting to start.
Whack starter while someone else is attempting to start.
(whacking, is done with a wooden handle)
Bypass wires from battery to starter solenoid, looking for broken main terminal wire (with jumper cables, be sure to do both positive and negetive).
Bypass solenoid (very briefly), to test starter and wire connection effectiveness.



Where are we at now?


If everything but the starter is engaging, it ain't no fuse.
Chances are it is a bad connection or bad starter or solenoid.

[bcraigan]

Thanks man! Done all of the up to the bypassing and gonna try that tomorrow. I am thinking that it acted like a solenoid because it did fine then all of the sudden nothing... ANy fuses in there that I need to look for? Thanks again!

[THEFERMANATOR]

Do you hear any clicking when you try and turn it over? Try turning on a light and see if it goes out when you're trying to start it. Sounds like a bad connection at a battery or a loose wing nut at the batteries. Also check the main fuse under the cowling at the starter solonoid to make sure it is good.

[tsubaki]

I didn't read the year on that motor, FERM is correct and has a point.
I can't remember off the top of my head what year they started adding the fuses, different than the main cartridge type on the older motors. I'm sure there is one fuse for the tilt and a whole other bank for various things, ATO or MINI type.
On that year I don't believe you can see the starter gears teeth to check and see if the starter is hung up on the flywheel without removing a safety cover. If the motor is at the top of a compression stroke and the starter teeth has contacted the flywheel and not retracted (or released) it will act just like a dead battery, blown fuse, bad solenoid or starter.

[tsubaki]

Finally got to the book on that motor.
At least as new as 1992 and older has only the single cartridge fuse, if the tilt, choke, etc is working, the fuse is alright.

1993 to at least 2001 used a single ATO type fuse (replacing the cartridge type), unless it's a FICHT engine.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by tsubaki

Finally got to the book on that motor.
At least as new as 1992 and older has only the single cartridge fuse, if the tilt, choke, etc is working, the fuse is alright.

1993 to at least 2001 used a single ATO type fuse (replacing the cartridge type), unless it's a FICHT engine.

Just because those work is no guarantee that everything with the fuse is fine. I don't know how many times I had to fiddle with mine on my 140 because all of those worked but it wouldn't start. Turned out the wire going into the fuse was corroded inside enough so it couldn't flow enough current to apply the starter solonoid, but would still power the guages and choke.

[tsubaki]

Good point FERM!
Being the power has to run all the way from the engine, to the helm controls and back to the solenoid.