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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			For years I've read threads about people saying they have soft spots on their floor.  I never knew what they meant until recently. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			I happened to be walking on the deck of the boat in my sig. A F20 Fisherman. In the small area between the front bench seat and the raised bow platform area I happened to notice a very small, very subtle soft spot. I would estimate the spot to be about the size of a small grapefruit. I can really only find it if I am looking for it and I can only feel it with my bare heel. The amount of "give" in the soft spot is so small, I'm not sure I could even estimate give in the soft spot. There's another spot with the same characteristics behind the leaning post. Again .. the spot is very small, and very subtle. Any normal adult could stand on either soft spot with all their weight and they would probably not notice that they had stepped on a soft spot. What would you do with this? Anything? I am considering re-painting the deck / floor to re-seal the floor and cover the spider cracking in the current surface. I don't want to seal some problem in, but I don't really fancy a complicated job of cutting the floor apart and doing fiberglass work. Anyway, would love some input! Thanks, Chris 
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	-------------- V20 Fisherman w/ Suzuki DT200 (1987 ish)  | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Well, the "correct" answer is repair it properly.  If that means removing the deck, etc, then so be it.    
		
		
		
		
		
		
			However, the "incorrect" answer (at least from where I stand), is leave it alone. You have a problem, It will need to be fixed at some point. Right now it's a minor problem from what you describe. Eventually, over time, it will grow to be a major problem if not fixed. But I wouldn't touch it until winter is here and the boating season is done. This is summer right now, and it will serve no purpose to tear your boat apart and loose out on this warm fishing and boating weather. Leave it alone till winter and then ask the question again. IMHO 
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	1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.  | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Thanks for the reply destroyer.  Hopefully there are some threads here (or anywhere really) where someone has documented a similar repair. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			I'm a pretty avid and generally capable DIY'er .. but I'm not sure about this. I've seem photos of folks cutting out their floors and I'm not sure I have it in me to go through all that. Plus I don't really have anywhere to do that kind of job. I live in a neighborhood where a job like that can't really be done. I'll definitely search for threads and advice. If you know any relevant threads where I can start reading and educating myself on the size and scope of such a job, I'd appreciate it. Thanks again Destroyer, Chris 
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	-------------- V20 Fisherman w/ Suzuki DT200 (1987 ish)  | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			I agree with Destroyer.  Soft spots are usually larger once you dig into them and can be like opening a can of worms.  I'd keep your hatches open when covered and not in use to help dry things out and not touch the soft spot until it's unbearable and you're ready to cut the deck out or do a cap off restoration.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20  | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			there is a copy of the west epoxy manual in the link sections.  there are a few suggestions for situations like yours. agree with d, use it this summer and repair this winter.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			 Quote: 
	
 I'm not sure paying a professional shop to do the work is a reasonable solution. You know your area better than most anyone on here, so if that is an avenue you are considering it is never too soon to start investigating. I don't mean to be a negative naybob but I have seen what is under the floor of a few boats. When it is a boat with a soft floor it's usually not a brand new bilge under there.  | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Rob, normally you take a drill with a very small bit and start drilling out in a pattern from the center to see the limits of where you finally start getting dry wood shavings.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	81 V20 1996 200 Ocean Pro  | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			I've done a half-asst repair that seems to be holding up.  Now, I had no choice because there was already the 5" hole where the passenger pedestal was and soft wood where the screws were. I just dug out the soft wood from between the glass , stuck in a piece of old teak, then fiberglass & Bondo baby. Of course, then I had to paint the deck.... 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Point is, like others said, beware of "project creep". Also, I have noticed a few spots where the deck flexes but its not the wood core it is space between the deck & stringer caused by pieces of the adhesive epoxy crumbling out from age. I'll live with it until the day comes to do a total restore. 
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	1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc  | 
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