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#1
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Great link to bedding your boats hardware
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/r...ardware&page=1
Heres a pretty straight forward article on bedding your boats hardware, I will be using the same technique on mine. 
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#3
01-19-2013, 10:10 AM
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I am pretty good at making a mess with butyl tape on a steel building roof so I imagine it would be even worse with the boat. You can also bed hardware with epoxy but it would be considered permanent.
__________________
1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage.
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#4
01-19-2013, 11:51 AM
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Jason, I think thats his point. I like the fact that its stay semi flexible and doesnt have a high adhesion. the 4200 and 5200 product I have used and you will tear some stuff removing it. Ofcourse like he says 5200 does have its place on a boat like bedding t-tops and other things. My cleats,electronic brackets rodholders and outrigger recievers will be done with the butyl tape. My dad has a crap load of gray at his house.
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#5
01-19-2013, 06:22 PM
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My rear cleats will be attached to the transom. Seeing as how I do not want bolts and nuts sticking out my transom I plan to screw the cleats to the transom and bed in epoxy. But I can see the butyl tapes use on non structural components. Maybe not rod holders. I have ripped many out so mine might end up in epoxy. No matter what the chamferde holes is ingenious. Its all very good info. But it all comes back to sealing any exposed core with epoxy. If water cant get in it cant wreak havoc. I picked up a West Systems book on boat repair and it has been a valuable tool.
__________________
1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage.
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#6
01-19-2013, 06:31 PM
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Jason I stand corrected my cleats will be also attached to my transom. I'm gonna have hawse pipes thru the cap. I want my cap slick!!!!
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#7
01-19-2013, 06:52 PM
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A couple of thoughts on the beveling process...if I have several holes to do in one project, while he mentions changing from bit to bit, I like to use more than one drill motor; one for the drill bit, one for the counter-sink bit and a third for a phillips head bit for the fastener itself...while I have for years, beveled FASTENER holes intended for a wood type screw to thread into, I never thought to bevel a CLEARANCE hole for a machine screw to pass through..it makes sense as it does away with that 90* edge of the hole which is easily cracked and provides for a bit more sealant where it counts...I've never used Butyl Tape, but it sure looks like a good idea in some installations...but not below the waterline...
A couple of times w/just a couple of holes to bevel, I have used the tip of a phillips head screwdriver...twisted back and forth between your opens palms, it quickly takes that 90 off the edge...once I couldn't find my countersink bit, I put a phillips bit in the drill motor and it worked fine... One thing I'd like to ask him; If beveling reduces cracking and failed seals(which I agree it does), does he ever bevel outside AND INSIDE of through holes...if not, why not?
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha 
Last edited by reelapeelin; 01-19-2013 at 07:17 PM.
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#8
01-19-2013, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage.
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#9
01-19-2013, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
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#10
01-19-2013, 10:59 PM
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That's a good article. Never knew about that tape. But I've used a different but just as effective way of bedding hardware for years with no problems.
First, I don't use a burr or countersink to bevel the hole. I use a machinists deburring tool. You just insert the blade into the hole, make a few quick rotations with the blade and the hole is beveled. Total time is less than 15 seconds and you don't have to switch bits in your drill since this is a manual tool. (Also, since it's made to deburr holes drilled or punched into metal it will also chamfer them just as easily. Here's a link to what I'm talking about. The type I use is like the one with the blue handle. http://www.google.com/search?q=debur...w=1109&bih=555 Once the hole has been prepared I slide a small rubber o-ring up to the head of the bolt or machine screw. Make sure it's a tight fit around the shaft. This will act as a seal between the screw and the item being secured. (cleat, rod holder, etc) Then, on the underside of the item I use a thin 1/16" sheet of rubber. (This is the stuff they use on roofs...much like the Carlisle EPDM roofing material). I put the sheet on a wooden plank, then I put the base of the item that's being secured down on the sheet, use a drill that's slightly smaller than the screw to drill out where the holes are going and then trace the outline of the base with a ball point pen. Next I use a scissors to cut it out. Now I have a flexible rubber gasket that fits between the item and the deck. Position the item where you want it, push the screws down thru the holes in the gasket and tighten from the underside. Viola'.. all done, it's removable if needed, never leaks and doesn't destroy your gelcoat.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God)  Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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