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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
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|  Painting the Lower Unit 
			
			Sanded all the paint off the lower over the weekend.  Purchased some Phantom Black Mercury Enamel in the spray bomb and a can of the Zinc Chromate primer in spray bomb.  My thoughts were to rough up the entire lower with 90 grit, spray the primer on, sand again with 220 and apply the black.  Any tips or tricks before I lay the paint on?
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I just redid the entire OB a few weeks ago, sanded with 220 and wiped clean with mineral spirits, shot the zinc primer then the Merc paint, came out nice, I wish you could buy the paint so it can be shot from a spray gun.........
		 
				__________________ 1974 Wellcraft V-20 Center Console 1999 Mercury 150 HP Bluewater 1975 Wellcraft V-17 1977 Evinrude 70 HP Restoration Thread http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=404584 Enfield Connecticut Civil War Veterans Graves and History Pages http://enfieldwargraves.smugmug.com My companion book I authored http://www.blurb.com/books/1137672 | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I use those plastic cleaning wheels that are diamond embedded for cleaning the old paint off. They work great and last a long time. Also make sure and use a grease and wax remover after cleaning it before you apply the primer. I use PREP-ALL from AUTOZONE for cleaning. Apply your primer with light coats to avoid runs. I persoanlly let it dry for about 30 minutes to an hour and then begin laying down my color. I've never sanded the primer on the ones that I have done and haven't had any problems. Also I use engine enamel for the lower units as it is a tougher paint, but it will fade pretty fast in the sunlight.
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Thanks for the replies.  I like the idea of using the small round scotch brite pads for removing the paint.  If it were anything but a complete half a$$ paint job in the first place it may have been necessary.  I really like the idea of not having to sand after the primer.  One less step will save some time.   | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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|  Final coat didn't happen.. 
			
			As one crital part was MIA.  There will definitely be a sanding stage after the primer. Got ready to spray the final color, shook the can for a good two minutes, popped the top off the can and no nozzle to be found. A 30 minute search thru all my junk and not even one matching nozzle. The can of primer says to recoat within 1 hour or wait a week? Is this right? If so I guess I get to sit back and watch the paint dry. Any opinions welcome. | 
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Use a scuff pad to deglaze the primer and go from there. You will tell real quick if there is any solvent problems between the primer and paint. It will crows foot or blister, chances are almost excellent no problems will occur. 
				__________________ '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
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			 What do you think about drying time for the primer before finish coat?
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Usually, if you can put your hand on it and not have it stick to you it will work. Normally either using a scuff pad or water sanding (or both) will let you sand between the suggested drying time. If when sanding, if it sticks, becomes gummy, it's not cured enough to sand. One thing about paints, primers, resins and epoxies is if it has a glaze or skim coat on it, it takes a little longer to cure out. Scratching it or sanding it increases the cure rate (makes it quicker). The Zinc Chromate I've used usually is good after 24hrs to be sanded, 45 minutes or so for repaint. Keep in mind, we have high temps and humidity, which increases drying rate. 
				__________________ '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny | 
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
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|  Results 
			
			Thanks again.  I waited 48 hours on the zinc chromate primer, painted the lower last evening after a light sanding.  The Mercury paint bomb worked without a problem, no solvent issues and only one run on the lower part of the mid, AKA operator error.  I had just enough paint to cover the lower with two coats and the lower 5 inches of the mid with one and three quarter coats, thus the run.  I will give it 48 hours and put it back together.  Cross another one off the list...   | 
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			#10  
			
			
			
			
			
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			here was when i painted the 225 for my 21 project well here's my Johnson / Boater93's old motor NAKED ;D i've stripped it clean and now going to zinc primer the motor.      OK here's pics of the motor painted        repaired the glass and finished painting the lower cowlings    The Hood i plan to paint before i start  The paint i just got and colors i want to use  The Hood after sanding    The hood after 4 coats of White as my start base color will mask off and paint other colors tomorrow i hope.       i painted the hood tonight remember this is all paint so I hope you think it's an OK job. it works for me just wish it were a little better but guess it will be fine. I bought a set of white Johnson word decals to put on the Hood and a set of 225 decals in Silver. Painted Hood     Comparing hoods   well here's my hood finally done                   
				__________________ 1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's Last edited by Skools Out; 10-01-2009 at 07:28 AM. | 
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