Transom repair???

[jetblue319]

well, as i was installing my Lenco trim tabs, to the transom of my 86 v20 cc, brown water came out of the drill holes. When i purchased the boat i did check for flexing on the transom, and when i removed all the hardware from the swim platform, engine mounting bolts, i didn't noticed any rot from the holes. the boat has not been in water for 6 years, it sat on a trailer or blocks, covered. Any way to verify how much damage is done? If the transom must be repaired has anyone used "coosan board blue 26" from boat outfitter instead of marine plywood.? any advice is appreciated. i did see skunkwork's you tube video.
thanks
jet

[Destroyer]

About the only true way I know of to accurately check for rot is to drill a series of holes in a pattern across the transom. Check the kind of wood that comes out of each hole. That way you can verify the extent of the dry rot, if there is any. Seal each hole with 5200 after you check it. (Use a Q-tip to force the 5200 all the way into the hole). In all cases the very fact you have water intrusion into the transom is cause for concern. If there is no appreciable rot you have to find out where it's coming from and stop it to prevent further damage. Check for flexing again. 6 years is a long time for water to be laying up against the wood without causing any rot.

[phatdaddy]

I would do as D suggest, drill some holes along the bottom of the transom and see what drips out. I know some guys who set up a small vacuum pump and let it pump each hole for a couple of days to dry it out. Once you get it as dry as u can, i d wet out the holes with gorilla glue, then fill them with wooden dowels coated with the same glue. After everything cures, sand out and finish with small dab of Marine Tex.

This is the main reason i ve never put tabs on , scared to death to drill 10 or 12 holes in the bottom of my transom.

The right way would be the skunk method, but this might buy you a little time.

Be sure and take lots of pics and post em

[scook]

The vacuum pump sounds like a good idea. After that, you might try sustained heat with a heat lamp(s) or some safe heaters aimed at the area over a few weeks th drive the moisture out after sucking it out.

[SkunkBoat]

I wouldn't panic...yet..

Nearly all 30+ year old boats have water at the bottom of the transom. The effect of multiple screw holes from transducers over the years and the screws and opening at the drain. Also, the stringers had holes drilled at the transom that weren't sealed. The stringer wood butted against the transom wood with no glass in between

Remove the garboard drain. Let it drip.
You can try a pattern of 1/8" test holes as stated but you can do them inside instead of outside. get a sense of what wood is wet and soft and black. If a hole is suspect drill it bigger to get a good look.
A few inches at the bottom isn't a death sentence.

Check the stringers in a few places too!

Do the thumping test also.

If you saw my video you see that the corners of the cutout are a susceptible spot. There was wet black mush in the corners and at the bottom near old screw holes. But as I stated in the video, I think my concern was overblown and that remaining wood wasn't in danger of catastrophic failure.

If possible, remove the motor and get under the trim there, cut off the glass and look at the top of the wood. Dig in the motor mount holes to look for black mush. Then it's all up to you to decide what to do.


I wouldn't use 5200 to refill holes. Use epoxy in a syringe. You have to fill from the back of the hole out, if that makes sense. Otherwise you are just making a bubble on the outside.

[jetblue319]

I was wondering is it better to remove the back skin of fiberglass on the transom and then the rotten plywood and replace with Coosa Board and then reglass? I currently have everything remove on transom (engine, platform) except the new tabs I installed. ( have to fight that 5200 on the trim tabs and drain plug. I signed up for a West End fiberglas workshop in February. Again thanks for the inputs
Jet

[SkunkBoat]

In my opinion, never cut the back skin.
1.
All of those wrap around edges were formed with layers of glass and you will never be able to wrap around the outside corners.
2.
The V20 transom IS NOT FLAT.. Once you cut off the outside and remove the wood you will be hard pressed to get back to the original shape.
Stop thinking you are going to put one big flat piece of coosa across the stern. It won't be right.

[3 Squids]

At the very least I’d do a thump test and see if you can pinpoint the severity of it. Tapping on it with a hammer you will get 2 very different sounds from wet and dry wood. Dry wood will be a sharp, crisp crack when you hit it. Hit it high on the transom to get used to this sound. When you find moisture it will be a dull thud. Where you’re putting tabs I’d assume if it isn’t from a previous transducer it’s probably where the stringers meet. If this is the case if it doesn’t seem to be very far spread I’d say just recheck for flex regularly and run it.

Don’t cut your outer skin off. Don’t ask me how I know. It’s possible on many boats but as skunk said these transoms are in 3 pieces and there’s no way to recreate the shape and have the skin fit properly. Might look “ok” but it wouldn’t be 100% bonded and solid. Skunks pour method is the way to go but if you’re not getting flex I would try to get a couple more years out her.

[phatdaddy]

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...aintenance.pdf

This is a pretty good how to book for basic glass work

If i was going to do a transom, I d do skunk s pour methoud and try to address the stringers as well. To do that your talking about cutting off the aft section of the cap or total removal.

That link is not working, look in the link section of this site on the second page, bradford posted it under fiberglass repair

[jetblue319]

thanks everyone , will look into skunkwork's method, i seen that a few times on you tube. and trying to see what materials i will need. boats in storage, will do thump check when i get over there. will get back to you all when i start thanks again
jet