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  #1  
Unread 06-20-2016, 12:21 PM
A ReelCool Chick A ReelCool Chick is offline
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Default Primer Solenoid Questions

Hey all!

So, my '94 Evinrude Ocean Pro 225 has been acting up on the cold start lately. This motor has a primer solenoid, and my start process is squeeze primer bulb until hard, press key in (which activates the solenoid) and turn while pressing. Sometimes I have to do this about 3 or 4 times to get her to start.

My engine doesn't like that anymore, and the last couple of times, I've started it with the throttle lever (?) on the engine. Please let me know if that's a no-no. Also, once she starts and is warm, she's great.

I think I've isolated the problem to the solenoid. It does click when I press in the key, it's supposed to shoot out fuel with each press, but when I removed the tubes, the first press is a great flow, second press is weak flow, third is non-existant flow. Understanding that the solenoid needs a pressurized fuel to release the fuel, I check the primer bulb, and it's only one squeeze away from being hard.

I'm thinking that I should still get some sort of flow from the solenoid if the bulb is one squeeze away from being hard. Please let me know if I'm wrong.

I've turned the lever on the solenoid that completely opens the solenoid, and she starts that way. This is what leads me to believe the solenoid is bad. Please let me know if there is another issue to consider.

If it is indeed the solenoid, I'm looking to try to rebuild it, but the kits I've seen online is only the lever and the top cover. Please let me know if there is a more complete kit, and things to look out for when rebuilding this thing.

As always, thanks in advance for your help!
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  #2  
Unread 06-20-2016, 10:04 PM
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You've already verified the solenoid is fine. It clicks which means it's opening, and you said it sprays fuel out, so it's flowing, it's doing everything it's supposed to. You will only get a spurt after pumping up the bulb and then pushing it in. As soon as the pressure drops down, it stops spraying fuel. I ALWAYS crack the throttle open starting these old loopers, just makes starting easier. If you hold the key in to prime it while cranking the engine, the fuel pump will make pressure and let it spray more fuel in.
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  #3  
Unread 06-21-2016, 08:21 AM
A ReelCool Chick A ReelCool Chick is offline
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Back to the drawing board....just when I thought I had it figured out.

Based on your feedback, I immediately thought that the fuel pump may be going, but if that were the case, she wouldn't start right up after she warms.

I guess I need to look at dumping some seafoam in her, or getting the carbs cleaned.
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Unread 06-21-2016, 11:31 AM
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You're just experiencing normal big looper cold starting. Mine was a mild built 225 on mine, and it almost took selling my soul to the devil to get it started on a 40 degree morning.
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2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #5  
Unread 06-21-2016, 12:57 PM
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Look for air leaks in the fuel hoses too
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Unread 06-22-2016, 08:06 AM
A ReelCool Chick A ReelCool Chick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR View Post
You're just experiencing normal big looper cold starting. Mine was a mild built 225 on mine, and it almost took selling my soul to the devil to get it started on a 40 degree morning.
I don't mean to sound like a cry baby, but I don't want to do a "please baby, baby please" at the dock trying to get her started. Did you ever fix yours, or you just had that "understanding" of how it was going down at every launch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeonthewater View Post
Look for air leaks in the fuel hoses too
Will do. Thanks!
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Unread 06-22-2016, 01:00 PM
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There was no fixxing it, its the naturevof the beast. I ALWAYS cracked the throttle open when starting, and would normally not hit the primer until I was cranking it to avoid flooding it. Carbed engines in general can be contankerous to start, and big loop charged outboards are the toughest to start. Once you figure out how each engine wants to be started, its alot easier.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #8  
Unread 06-22-2016, 03:10 PM
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try squeezing the ball, pull up throttle 1/3, push key in 3 times, then turn key. if it coughs or sputters do not push key anymore, advance throttle more


that was the sequence for my 94 merc. took me about a year to figure it out
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  #9  
Unread 07-02-2016, 11:19 AM
A ReelCool Chick A ReelCool Chick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatdaddy View Post
try squeezing the ball, pull up throttle 1/3, push key in 3 times, then turn key. if it coughs or sputters do not push key anymore, advance throttle more


that was the sequence for my 94 merc. took me about a year to figure it out
that's the issue now...pressing in the key once will give it a shot of gas, the third press gives nothing. As recommended, I have to check my fuel line for air leaks. I trust what was said here, but I truly believe that solenoid should give up gas beyond one push if the line is sufficiently pressurized.

Ahhhh, boat ownership.
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  #10  
Unread 07-02-2016, 03:48 PM
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Liquid (gasoline) doesn't compress... Once you hit the prime once it is no longer pressurized...

While cranking the engine the fuel pump should keep it pressurized tho...

Try pressing it a couple times while cranking instead of before cranking.
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