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#1
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As you can tell I am getting ready to put my boat in the water for the first time. I was checking out the spare stuff like props. I found an extra prop in the engine compartment. It has stamped on it 14.5X17, the one currently on the boat has 15.5X17, is that possible? I thought the first number was the diamater and the second number the pitch. Is it possible I can use ether 14.5 or 15.5?
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#2
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The proper way is to find out what your engine's WOT (Wide Open Throtle) specs call for and then find a prop that matches those specs. For example, lets say your engine manual says that WOT should equal 5600 rpm. So you start out with a 15p prop and you find that the rpms are 6000. You would then go to a 17p prop and see what that resulted in. The idea is to dial in, as closely as possible, to what your engine's specs say are ideal for you engine. Maybe the 17p was still a little over reved, but a 19p was way under-reved.... you could then increase the diameter of the prop from a 14 1/2 to a 15, but keep the same 17 pitch. See? Everything works together. There are other things to consider also, like rake, cupping, aluminum vs SS, etc., but for now just start out simple and find out which of the 2 props you have gets you closer to your proper WOT spec. In your case, since they are both the same pitch, the smaller diameter prop will give you higher revs than the larger diameter one.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#3
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Good job!
![]() Take the time to digest what Destroyer posted. Each design facet changes the props performance.
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#4
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Thanks you guys are the best. I have a few things to learn... but have all summer to lean them..
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#5
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… now you have me thinking, the lower unit anode is broken off. From what I understand I don't really need it as this is a I/O motor and the boat does not stay in the water, feel free to correct me here. I wonder if the previous owner broke off the anode to put the 15.5 diameter prop on…
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#6
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#7
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__________________
2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#8
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and put a new anode on if you have not. better safe than sorry
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1986 V20 96 225 rude on factory bracket |
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#9
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I am willing to buy a new prop as I suspect the preveious owen might have the wrong prop on it.... I was going to see if I could take the boat and water test it with different props, if possible.. |
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#10
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Try the 15.5X17 and see how it runs first. That big of a boat will like a large diamter prop(like a MIRAGE) or a 4 blade to get enough surface area so it will stay on plane at slower speeds. As for an anode, get teh smooth MERC one for it if you replace it. The one with a skeg fin on it will need trimmed to clear the larger diameter props.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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