|  | 
| 
			 
			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
		 | |||
| 
 | |||
|  teak wood 
			
			whats the best way to treat my teak? im thinking teak oil. my buddy and i just sanded it all down, (its beautiful) and trying to decide between poly eurithane or oil. thanks for all replies.
		 | 
| 
			 
			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 | ||||
| 
 | ||||
|   
			
			Nymack did a great job on his recently.  Here is the link: http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=13796 
				__________________ 1994 Wellcraft V21 | 
| 
			 
			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
		 | ||||
| 
 | ||||
|   
			
			If your looking for an easy way out, try starbrite tropical teak oil. No sanding required. You don't get the shiny varnished look, but it keeps its color pretty well. It was rated very high in practical sailor.
		 
				__________________ Sorry to say that I no longer have a 1984 V20 :( | 
| 
			 
			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 | ||||
| 
 | ||||
|   
			
			I used teak oil for 9 years and switched to polyuerethane last year. Boat is in water from May/Nov, uncovered. The teak inside the cabin is great and i still just oil it in place. The exterior teak has always turned grey and green by August.   In the spring I would powerwash the exterior teak lightly to remove the grey, then remove it and oil it. I found I made a mess trying to oil it in place. Last spring it was looking pretty rough and after sanding a lot, I actually used a planer on the rails of the sliding hatch. It was so smooth and beautiful I decided to go the urethane route and see if it could last. I used at least 3 coats, sanding between them. Came out Beautiful! The folding doors, glove box and dash trim held up great right thru the season and winter. That will save me some prep each season. However, the sliding hatch pieces have a small amount grey. I'm going to do light sanding and a few more coats and try one more season. Try to figure out if I should switch back to oil on the hatch. Powerwashing and oil is a whole lot easier than sanding and urethane. To summarize, Oil is easier but doesn't hold up in the weather. You'll have to do it every season. Urethane holds up through the season in exposed areas except horizontal deck pieces. I used Starbright teak oil and Zspar urethane 
				__________________ 1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc | 
| 
			 
			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
		 | ||||
| 
 | ||||
|   
			
			Just clarification that I used the starbright tropical teak oil, which is much different than the starbright teak oil found at west marine. I think it will take at least 2-3 seasons before it will turn grey.
		 
				__________________ Sorry to say that I no longer have a 1984 V20 :( | 
| 
			 
			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
		 | |||
| 
 | |||
|   
			
			I am a big fan of Sikkens Cetol Marine finish.  Lasts a long time.  Pretty expensive--about 40 bucks a quart, but a quart goes a long way.  You put on 3-6 coats initially, then can just lightly sand and put on a couple more coats each season.  On areas that are not exposed to sun, it'll last for years without any need to retreat.
		 | 
| 
			 
			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 | |||
| 
 | |||
|   
			
			After seeing Nymack's post it got me in gear to do mine so i went with SIKKENS   Cetol Marine Wood Finish after a quick sand of 220 and three coast later it looks amazing! | 
| 
			 
			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 | ||||
| 
 | ||||
|  I just did mine with Cetol Natural Finish, very happy 
			
			I don't think the teak on my 79 was ever treated before, at least not for many years.   See my post from a couple days back for a few pics including before and after: Spring has sprung in RI I did 3 coats and all the teak looks great. Hope to have it back on the boat this weekend. | 
|  | 
| 
 | 
 |