Gas Tanks

garycorbett · #1 05-25-2006, 10:20 AM

I am repowering my V20. It has the side saddle tanks and they are old - 1976 - I was wondering if I should take them out and examine them as to what shape they are in???? Anyone got any opinions on this? I don't know what shape they are in after all these years. The fuel guages don't work but I found I never really needed them. I assume the sending units don't work anymore. Anyone know if these can be fixed or where I could get replacements that work; preferable used.

reelapeelin · #2 05-25-2006, 10:56 AM

GC, are you currently using the boat or has it been sitting up for a while...if using w/ no gas issues, I wouldn't see a need to pull and inspect...however if they've not been in use for a long time, better have a look at them...

I lke to have working gauges...and wouldn't go to the trouble to replace sending units w/ used...go w/ new ones...

Every boat should have a water seperator/ filter unit in the fuel line...if your boat doesn't have on, put one in, no matter what else you do w/ your tanks... ;) :)...this is the one I use:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...llpartial/15/0

You can bring lines from each tank to this one filter, then a single line to the motor...each incoming line needs to have it's own "shut-off" valve...

macojoe · #3 05-25-2006, 11:16 AM

I have a 75 with the same tanks, Take them out its not hard!!

Dump all gas and wash with degrease, and rinse well!!

Let sit in the sun for a day to dry 100% Reinstall with new hoses and make sure the vent is clean and working.
I am sure you have the vents under the rub rail, this is a good time to relocate them, as they all leak while trailing!
I moved mine to the step up just above the rub rail, no more leaking!!

Also before reinstalling look at the gas pick up were you mount the fuel hose, it gets corroded and there is a ball in the fitting, that gets stuck.
If this happens you won't get any fuel and be banging your head why ???
I removed mine all toghter!

Also add a 3 way switch so you can change from one tank to the other!
The tanks will never drain even, no matter what you do!!
And when you run out of gas all you have to do is tuern the switch and your good to go!!
After a few times you will no excatly what you use on a trip and there will be no worries!

And as stated above you need to add a fuel/water separator !! It a must with this new gas!!

Sounds like alot of work but you can have it all done in 2 days, one to disassamble and clean and one to reinstall, all.

As for the gas gauge, throw it over board!! I am not sure what you have for a motor, but I stay out all day with a 175 hp and 20 gal tank is all I have ever needed!

Just fill both tanks and use one at a time, you7 will always be able to switch to the other tank when you run out.
Always switch tanks every trip to insure you are using the gas up and getting new gas in both tanks!

garycorbett · #4 05-26-2006, 01:15 PM

Hi - I have a brass tank switch and a gas filter/wat sep on it. I wonder if I should bother - can I look see in there with some kind of scope? I believe the tanks are aluminum?? How big an issue is corrosion? I wonder now with the 115 DI going on if I should bother with the fuel gauges?

macojoe · #5 05-26-2006, 03:11 PM

Gauges are up to you, I don't run them but thats me.

as for the tanks, they are not hard to get out and after you do the job you will have all new hoses and clean tanks!!

Yes you should clean, inspect, and replace all!

Better now then when they mess up in the middle of the season or worse in the water!!

Blue_Runner · #6 05-26-2006, 03:20 PM

I did exactly what MJ just said to my '72 and never had a fuel problem.

When I got the first tank out, I pulled the hose off the pickup and a nasty looking spider crawled out :o ;D

Blew some compressed air, then followed MJ's instructions. Piece of cake! I'd say you can do it in a day.

Blue

bigshrimpin · #7 05-26-2006, 04:25 PM

Gary - When you put that 115 on . . . make sure you prop that motor to turn at least 5800. You don't want to lug that motor down, b/c of the carbon soot that builds up in them. Those motors are friggin high maintainence. If you don't have it already . . . I have a copy of the software 1.42B . . . You just need a cable and a manual to read all the error codes. Also you might check out www.dfitechnologies.com . . . fun fun fun :)