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#1
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As title say's my first post. Was really surprised to see V-20s had their own forum. A ton of info available when needed. Cool.
That said, I'm starting some repairs/upgrades to my first V-20. I believe it's an 83. A marine mechanic I know is going thru the wiring and replacing any thing that is suspect. The only other thing I want to address this season is the front deck. At some point in time hardware was removed and the screw hole not properly sealed. The result was predictable. I'm replacing the rotted plywood with 3/4 marine and will glue to the top with epoxy, then seal with glass. My question is how to brace the deck in order to make it strong enough to stand (fish) on? I'm thinking a couple of white ash stringers running crossways glassed to the sides of the hull. If anyone has beefed their deck up to take a couple of hundred pounds, I'd appreciate their input. Thanks in advance. Earl |
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#2
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welcome, i've got a soft spot on mine also, i just don't step there. i'm assuming your going to try and fix from underneath. i think the only supports originally were the ones that outlined the sliding hatch.
maybe somebody who has been down this road before will chime in. take plenty of pics |
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#3
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You are correct. The supports are pretty light duty. Okay, I guess if no real weight is on the deck, but I want this boat as a primary fishing boat, so the front deck is just wasted area if it can't support an average size angler. There are probably several way's to address it, but I want to keep it simple, and no matter what, the deck needs support to carry any reasonable weight. If anyone has had good results with their method, I'm open to suggestions.
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#4
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3/4" ply is not needed.... 1/2" glassed in and a couple 1 1/2" strips of the same 1/2" ply on edge and glassed in for braces will be more than enough IMHO.
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#5
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Fair enough. Is 1/2" plywood sturdy enough to carry the weight of an average size guy? Not trying to be a wise guy, I just have a hard time envisioning it being heavy enough to carry a load spread over 6'. Would certainly simplify things tho.
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#6
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You are going at it from the top? How many squares?(The deck is made of squares of plywood). Pull off the carpeting if you haven't already an you can see the squares.
if you have the option of working from below. you can cut off either the top skin or bottom skin. NOT BOTH! Top means you have to fair it and paint and do pretty work. But its easy to access. Bottom means you can do sloppy work but its a hard angle. Bolt in a peice of angle aluminum across the bottom to reinforce...easy...
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#7
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I"ve gone at it from the bottom. Cut out the lower skin and removed all the plywood squares. Just finished grinding the excess epoxy off today. Gone as far as I can until Tuesday, when the stores open again. Pick-up the fibreglass etc and start stage 2. Never thot about a piece of angle, but makes sense. Thanks
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#8
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You are building a bridge, not a concrete slab... The 1/2" ply sheet is only the deck of the bridge... The cross braces on edge are the framework.
If you have any doubt, build a braced test plank... |
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#9
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Never thot of it that way, but makes sense. Going to make a mock up tomorrow and see. Thanks
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#10
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Keep in mind that in the boat it will be supported on almost all edges and that the glass will add a lot of strength.... I'd estimate that the finished product will be about twice as rigid as the test plank.
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