Closed Cooled 350 Questions

bigshrimpin · #1 07-03-2013, 02:44 PM

Hi Guys - Haven't posted on here in a while. I'm trying to put together a engine and drive package on the cheap for a free boat. I'm totally new to I/O's, so I'm looking for a little help. I got a Donor boat recently for free. This thing has lots of (good???) parts . . . including a closed cooled 350 that starts and runs (has good compression), trim tabs, 280T drive that I don't need, etc. Anyone know what kind of closed cooling setup this is? Worth saving? I'm hoping to be able to use the 350 and "Custom" heat exchanger?

I also bought a freshwater 290 Volvo in a separate craigslist deal came with a Holley 4 barrell 650CFM carb, power steering, 2 spare alternators for a 350, and an extra trim pump.

THEFERMANATOR · #2 07-03-2013, 07:15 PM

Looks like you've got somebody's cobbled together mess to me. Not sure what that coolant tank and exchanger are off of, looks almost like something off of an older PERKINS diesel to me. And I also see the automotive style HEI distributor(marine versions NEVER came with a vacuum advance as it is never used in a boat). Unfortunately it is tough to find older engines that haven't been messed with after all these years.

bigshrimpin · #3 07-03-2013, 09:16 PM

Thanks Ferm . . . that's exactly the kind of feedback I was hoping for. Gonna cut it out of the boat and get the parts I need bell housing, mainfolds, controls, tabs. Do you think it's worth trying to use this motor? or just scrap it and start with a fresh block? and get a marine distributor. It's gonna be a winter project.

THEFERMANATOR · #4 07-03-2013, 10:29 PM

It may or may not. A lot depends on the condition of the inside of the block. I would say it would be worth getting it out and pulling the t-stat housing and block drains to see what the inside of the cooling system looks like. If that looks good then pull the valve covers and see what it looks like inside them. I will say that is not a marine engine, but a car engine dropped into a boat. It looks like a EDELBROCK performer intake(looks like performer cast into it in front of the distributor), the water pump is an early GM short pump(definitely not a marine pump), and that is an auto style carb as it still has the decal valve on it.

reelapeelin · #5 07-04-2013, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigshrimpin

Thanks Ferm . . . that's exactly the kind of feedback I was hoping for. Gonna cut it out of the boat and get the parts I need bell housing, mainfolds, controls, tabs. Do you think it's worth trying to use this motor? or just scrap it and start with a fresh block? and get a marine distributor. It's gonna be a winter project.

Good luck w/this project, BS...if some how, some way that trim tab pump is working and becomes available, I'm looking for one...

spareparts · #6 07-04-2013, 07:55 AM

I think ferm nailed all the high points, looks like someone swapped in a truck motor. Pull teh long block, run compression test, and start looking for a donor motor with good parts

spareparts · #7 07-04-2013, 07:56 AM

btw, what kind of boat is that? those are some big *** tabs!!!

reelapeelin · #8 07-04-2013, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spareparts

btw, what kind of boat is that? those are some big *** tabs!!!

Very sensitive to control input...

macojoe · #9 07-04-2013, 05:55 PM

the boat he is fixing is a 25' seacraft, not sure what the donor boat is, he told me but my mind ism't what it use to be!!

bigshrimpin · #10 07-04-2013, 07:24 PM

Thanks ferm and spares!

Donor boat is a 23 bayliner . . .

Reel . . . The pump is yours . . . Let me test it. The guy said one solenoid was bad. If that all that's wrong with it and you are interested . . . I'll send it . . . Just cover shipping.