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  #1  
Unread 03-24-2013, 10:55 PM
Barnegat16 Barnegat16 is offline
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Default 1979 V20 Fisherman Project

Made some serious headway on the project boat this week.

Tried to get the 88-89 225 Rude started, no spark, ran all the tests, ordered a powerpack.



The outboard was pulled and the transom repair started.


The chainsaw and scraper trick worked well. I'd say 90% of the wood was pretty bad. I cleaned all but the top 3 inches on each side near the cap. The nidabond filler should work like a charm. The skins and such were in fine shape.



There is a 2 week lead time for ordering the nida, so everything is tarped.

I also ripped the console open, removed the old rotted steering tubes. Uflex hydraulic steering to come. Along with some console changes.

Any recommendations for gauge backer material. I don't want top re glass the whole top of the console. I'm thinking 1/2" starboard or have a shop cut me a piece of aluminium.

"
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  #2  
Unread 03-25-2013, 10:45 AM
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reelapeelin reelapeelin is offline
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That CCs gonna haul some serious patooty w/that 225!!...also, you'll probably wanna completely ignore my scupper comments made before I saw where you are on the transom...lol...

I like 1/2" Starboard on top of the console...but I like Starboard about as much as chocolate...
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Unread 03-25-2013, 05:55 PM
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Kracker Jack Kracker Jack is offline
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oh come on !! cut the old core out of the console!! lol! I re-cored my console it wasnt that bad. But laminating starboard isnt a bad option either.
Also make sure you look closely at the factory skins inside to make sure there are no unknown holes in it, I have read about horror stories where guys do there pour and all a sudden find out they have a blow out some where and the nida starts leaking out. good luck on your repairs, shes gonna look sweeet!!!
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Unread 03-26-2013, 06:54 AM
Barnegat16 Barnegat16 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kracker Jack View Post
oh come on !! cut the old core out of the console!! lol! I re-cored my console it wasnt that bad. But laminating starboard isnt a bad option either.
Also make sure you look closely at the factory skins inside to make sure there are no unknown holes in it, I have read about horror stories where guys do there pour and all a sudden find out they have a blow out some where and the nida starts leaking out. good luck on your repairs, shes gonna look sweeet!!!
I may actually do a water test. I have at least 2 weeks before the pour. I also have read about nidabond/arjay bilges.

I have those damn square bezel gauges....I guess I can use a different swith panel/circuit breaker setup. I really like the blue sea integrated. Low BS for 120$.
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