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#1
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Made some serious headway on the project boat this week.
Tried to get the 88-89 225 Rude started, no spark, ran all the tests, ordered a powerpack. ![]() The outboard was pulled and the transom repair started. ![]() The chainsaw and scraper trick worked well. I'd say 90% of the wood was pretty bad. I cleaned all but the top 3 inches on each side near the cap. The nidabond filler should work like a charm. The skins and such were in fine shape. ![]() There is a 2 week lead time for ordering the nida, so everything is tarped. I also ripped the console open, removed the old rotted steering tubes. Uflex hydraulic steering to come. Along with some console changes. Any recommendations for gauge backer material. I don't want top re glass the whole top of the console. I'm thinking 1/2" starboard or have a shop cut me a piece of aluminium. "
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#2
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That CCs gonna haul some serious patooty w/that 225!!...also, you'll probably wanna completely ignore my scupper comments made before I saw where you are on the transom...lol...
I like 1/2" Starboard on top of the console...but I like Starboard about as much as chocolate...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#3
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oh come on !! cut the old core out of the console!! lol! I re-cored my console it wasnt that bad. But laminating starboard isnt a bad option either.
Also make sure you look closely at the factory skins inside to make sure there are no unknown holes in it, I have read about horror stories where guys do there pour and all a sudden find out they have a blow out some where and the nida starts leaking out. good luck on your repairs, shes gonna look sweeet!!! |
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#4
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I have those damn square bezel gauges....I guess I can use a different swith panel/circuit breaker setup. I really like the blue sea integrated. Low BS for 120$. |
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