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  #1  
Unread 06-14-2011, 02:37 PM
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Default OMC 115 questions all you gurus

As yall know I posted before I wanna upgrade the 18 to a V-6. However, that may be changing as basically my uncle has a Wahoo at my house (been storing it there) with a Johnny 115. It runs good but shows it age on the outside. Faded paint/decals. Under the cowling it looks "ok"..no rusted head bolts and such. He rarely uses it. It has sat for about 2 years and he just used it this past weekend and after fresh fuel and filters she ran like a top.

Long story short he is about to get a settlement and buy a new motor for his boat and that leaves me with getting it for little to NO $$. I know the Force 120 has seen better days...runs great but the head bolts and flywheel are so rusted I hate even looking at them for fear they will evaporate.


I dont know the year on the OMC but will look when I get home. Dont know "looper" or not or how to even tell that sorta stuff.

Had my heart set on a V6 but it wont be for a long time and would be dumb to turn this down if it works out. I also know ther're parts readily available should something go wrong with the OMC and my Force isnt worth working on. Even if I could get it apart without breaking every head/water jacket bolt. Some of them dont even have heads left...they are that bad..LOL


So I was wondering:

how do I tell the year?

what else can I look for to help yall ID it?

And whats the most I could take a 115 to HP wise by changing carbs or whatever? Just a 120? 130? or is the 130 and 140 a different/bigger block or something?

Would it be worth it to even fool with the HP aspect of it or just put a fresh coat of paint on, clean her up and fish!?
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Unread 06-14-2011, 03:38 PM
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Need to knwo what year to tell you how high the HP can go. If it's a looper i wouldn't push it any higher than 115HP, if it's a crossflow then it can be taken up to 140HP(but will drink as much as any 150 V -6 out there can). loo kat teh cylinder heads, if they are rounded without removeable head covers it's a looper, if it has a bunch of bolts on the cylinder heads with removeable covers it is a crossflow. Also teh looper will ahve a 1 piece block whereas the crossflow will have a removeable chest between the heads for teh exhaust cavity and it will also have covers on the outside of the block over the cylinders for the intake ports. If it's a looper I would jump on it as they are great engines and the 60 degree loopers were some of the most reliable outboards ever built. Crossflow engines are good engines, but tend to be thirtsy. they are reliable and simple though with ALOT of parts out there for them cheap. Also they are lightweight for there HP. Look on the port side clamp bracket and see if you can find a serial number on it that ends in 4 letters.
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Unread 06-14-2011, 03:41 PM
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Stink there is or should be a tag on that engine somewhere, my 96 115 had it on the part that bolts to your transom right below where the trim pump sat.
I love those engines man, I had two and both were potent, the last one i had is what powered Old School. That puppy sat on a bracket but it pushed her to 36 mph loaded.
Clean her up, make her look pretty if you want but I would not let her go and I would not mess with the HP. She has a lot of dog in the hunt already, trust me.
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Unread 06-14-2011, 03:44 PM
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Thanks guys..going home shortly and will look and take pics!
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Unread 06-14-2011, 03:44 PM
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Oh I forgot, they sip gas, after having my 150 and being used to that I actually thought my 115 was producing fuel instead of burning it
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1997 HydraSport 2250 Vector
2009 17' G3 Outfitter "G Spot"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDebw...eature=related
"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted and I won't be laid on a hand on. I don't do these things to others and I require the same from them" JW
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Unread 06-14-2011, 03:55 PM
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That would be a NICE change...that damn FORCE is HORRIBLE. Just with a moderate load and two people I struggle to get 2mpg. Although I know its a heavy lil boat too.
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Unread 06-14-2011, 04:33 PM
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Upon closer inspection its a crossflow from what you said Ferm. But more importantly not it quite the shape I though it was in. Rust on a couple head bolts but the steering armiture is pretty rough too. Does it look like it can be changed?
















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Unread 06-14-2011, 04:35 PM
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Also there is NO plate...Im guessing it was lost of rusted of at some point between crappy paint jobs. So I dont know the year?


Oh and its a 25" shaft so i would need to find a new mid or raise my transom...I kinda like the idea of raising my transom..
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Unread 06-14-2011, 05:04 PM
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that engine appears to be a late 80's 115 and already has the bubble back high flow exhaust on it. The rust on it isn't that bad compared to many of that age, and it looks like a good pressure washing then some wire brushing followed up by some OSPHO and good primer and paint would take care of the steering arm for a long time. It's a good solid engine, but not by any means easy on fuel for that crossflow. That's the same basic engine that my had(1.6l SEA-DRIVE was a 115 JOHNSON), and that thing drank gas like a V-10 DODGE truck towing 20K pounds. It used 12 GPH at a 3800RPM cruise I figured. On a lighter boat though many say they aren't that bad.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #10  
Unread 06-14-2011, 07:20 PM
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Thanks so much for the help Ferm. Gonna wait on his settlement and see how it pans out.


Do you think I could pull the arm off? Just the two bolts and its free?
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