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#1
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Time to pull the motor Got any tips?
I plan to do the transom this spring but figured I'd pull the motor (merc 135) now and store it inside and work on it during the winter. I'm building an engine stand with casters to roll it in the garage. My biggest concern is unhooking everything correctly. From what i can see the wiring harness just pulls apart. Is that correct? And what about the shift and throttle cables. How do they come apart? Its hard to tell looking at them and the seloc manual doesn't have any info. Any help or tips would be appreciated.
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#2
11-12-2009, 08:37 AM
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The harness unplugs, the battery cables (after disconnecting from battery)unbolt from the starter selonoid and starter, the shift and throttle cables have a small strap that you remove to release them at the adjustment point and a nylock nut w/washer to remove off the ends. Depending on the year, the motor may have the bayonett style fuel fitting to unplug or a hose clamp to undo at the fuel pump to remove the fuel line. Some older 135 Mercs had an external trim pump. If you have the external pump and you have the ability to take the pump loose from the boat without disconnecting the lines do it, otherwise take them loose from the pump end carefully with a line wrench. I tried to remove the lines from the cylinder side and messed up the aluminum threads in the cylinders.(the line ends are stainless) If it is modern the trim is built in and goes with the mid when you unbolt at the transom. Aside from that, you may have a few wires to unplug for the trim unit, they are color coded, maybe a wire or hose here and there if you have a water pressure guage, speedo or an aftermarket temp or something.
It is pretty easy and remember, it will only go back together ONE WAY RIGHT. If you find something not mentioned here, post it and someone will be glad to help. Don't forget to winterize before taking it off. Good luck. The party starts when you get busy with the grinder. 
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#3
11-12-2009, 08:37 AM
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If you want pm me your address. I could stop by and give you a hand. We both are in Toms River.
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#4
11-12-2009, 08:39 AM
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I forgot the oil injection lines if you have it.
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#5
11-22-2009, 05:26 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I'm pretty much set to pull it on the next nice day I have off work. The engine stand is built, and I got the lifting eye the other day from ebay. I just need to rent a cherry picker and have at it. I can't wait to pull off the aluminum cap to see whats left.
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#6
11-23-2009, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Go to wally-market and get a LABELING MACHINE...label every wire and cable and hose, putting the same label where it came from...putting it all back will be a LOT easier...actually you can do the same thing w/ masking tape and a ball-point pen...
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha 
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#7
11-23-2009, 05:39 PM
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Three of us removed my 150 johnson without any hoist. I just lowered the motor as low as it could go then cranked up the trailer until the motor hit the ground. Unbolted her and we moved it out of he way.
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#9
11-24-2009, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Have you seen the motor-stands that hold the motor by the cavitation plate...I was thinking you could make one and do the jack-stand thing you mentioned above should work pretty good...no lifting at all...of course, secure the motor so it won't tip over, but sounds good to me...
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha
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#10
11-24-2009, 07:21 PM
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Here's a few pics of the stand. Its a bit much but it will allow me to replace some parts at my leisure over the winter and of course roll it out of the way when I need the space. As you can see space is limited in the garage.
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Linear Mode
