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Unread 12-28-2006, 02:44 AM
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THEFERMANATOR THEFERMANATOR is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Zephyrhills Fl
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Default Re: WELCOME "THEFERMANATOR"

Quote:
Originally Posted by reelapeelin
Your boat's placard says I/O, yet it's sittin' there w/a Sea-Drive hangin' off the stern...sounds like as that hull went down the factory assembly-line as an I/O, it was diverted to the Sea-Drive assembly by mistake
This is what I think happened as well. It says right on the placard MODEL V20 I/O, yet it has a sea-drive on it. There are no signs inside of a patch job whatsoever, and the main piece of wood is between the stringer section of the transom. There is a section of wood also where the swim platform is thru-bolted, but there isn't wood across the whole port section of the transom. I removed the tube that the transducer wire passes thru and there is no signs nor traces of wood there. I've got the 140 in my sig to put on it, but it's a 20" shaft so I'll have to try and find the parts to make it a 25" shaft. It has performed well on every boat I've had it on(pushes the 19' bow-rider to low 50's, and pushed my old 19' ANGLER CC to low 40's), and gets decent economy. Just trying to decide If I should try it first or just bite the bullet and redo the transom with COOSA(read some bad reports of divinycell over on classicmako), but I don't know how well it would work with the curved transom.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

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