Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreene
The good.....
Transom well design is fine....can even keep bait and such as water sloshes in/out a couple inches with wave action on drift .
The design.....
Wellcraft set the top cap with aluminum strip where upper transom well meets lower.
Not the only boat manufacturer to do so - and it***8217;s not the best long term design.
The modification
I had the trim strip removed and upper and lower section of transom ***8220; fused***8221; together by
Signature Marine . They re glasses from top to almost 1/2 way down transom to form a very solid single unit. I had previously had the inside transom ***8220; seam***8221; fiberglassed solid too so likely to last ***8220; forever ***8220; since the transom had also tested dry prior to the work.
Top cap of boat therefore no longer ***8220; removable ***8220; as was from factory, but I don***8217;t plan to ever do that anyway.
This topic hit on before by Destroyer too
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Yep. totally agree that Bgreene's design is the very best way of preventing the transom from becoming a mass of rotted wood on the V21's. I'm seriously considering removing the aluminum cap from mine and doing (or having done) the same glass job that he had done. Last year, after hearing how Bgreene did his transom, I did remove the aluminum cap, filled the area between the outer and inner skins with a layer of Silicon, and then replaced the aluminum cap. Not the best solution I admit, but it was fast, cheap and much more effective than not having any sort of sealing between the two halves. We've both reinforced and glassed the interior skin where the set back mount comes thru the transom. I feel strongly that it's because of Wellcraft's design there that the V21's are only rated for 200HP instead of 225 or more.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer
1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer
1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer
All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango.
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