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Unread 10-19-2016, 07:41 AM
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Destroyer Destroyer is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Montville, NJ
Posts: 8,236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redloon View Post
If you're having problems with your trailer lights, get a set of LED submersible lights. I also run a third dedicated ground wire from each light up to the connector. I find using the trailer frame as the ground is not always reliable.
Agreed on the LED's. Brighter, safer, easier to be seen and more reliable. Less likely to have the police pull you over for lights being out. Harbor Freight sells them for under $40 for a complete kit.... lights, wires, license plate holder, instructions. Anytime you have a connection, it's a potential source for corrosion, be that the trailer frame or a joining of two or more wires. However, when you join two wires you can take additional steps to insure a long life without corrosion. First, make sure the wires are shiny bright copper. (Blackened copper already has corrosion setting in... replace them if possible) Second, use special electrical grease on the wires before joining them together. Third, use heat shrink butt connectors that advertise as being watertight. (Again you can buy them relatively inexpensively at Harbor Freight) They have a special coating inside that seals the connector as it shrinks, making the connection far less likely to corrode. And finally if you really want to be fastidious, use some liquid brush on electrical tape (sealer) to coat each connection after it it cools. As long as you do these things you can be assured of many, many years of trouble free trailer lights.

To recap: LED's, bright copper, electrical grease, watertight connectors, liquid sealer = hassle free trailering. You'll sleep better at night.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer
1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer
1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer
All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango.


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