Search Tags here for "DF140" to see all of my posts regarding my 2004 DF140.
I had the corroded part pictured. It was bad design to put that plug in the exhaust channel. I replaced the entire engine holder housing but the corrosion was limited to the plug as pictured. Some people have just used JB Weld and went on their way. I had a similar corrosion problem on my '91 Merc 150 at the thermostat, so there you go...
Aside from that, I love the motor and recommend them often. It was $10k installed new. I don't think I would pay $5k for a 16 year old outboard motor, no matter the brand. In 1999 I bought my '84 V20 with 9 yr old Merc150 and 6 yr old tandem trailer for $7k.
Old motors are like old cars. Stuff is about to break. If they run great and you already own them they are worth a lot to you. If you buy them, you are buying the privilege of fixing them one piece at a time...If you can't afford a new one, you gotta gamble on a used one.
My motor is 12 years old. It runs great. I replaced the IAC valve 2 years ago. Caused stalling when backing off from running fast to idle. I replaced low pressure fuel filter and engine anodes. Thinking of replacing low pressure fuel pump this spring before it can be a problem. The steering pivot shaft is getting tight and I will be disassembling it to clean old grease, replacing bushings while I'm at it.
I would check for the corroded plug and try to look at one of the 4 anodes in the head. If it hasn't been changed yet, it will be dust. If the 2000 is the same as the 2004, you can check the hours by watching the tach and the rev limit light when you turn the key. Tach will show 1000 rpm for every 100 hrs up to 500hrs. Above 500hrs rev limit blinks once and tach starts from zero again, above 1000hrs, rev limit blinks twice, etc...
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