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Unread 07-13-2014, 08:47 PM
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tartuffe tartuffe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Greenville, NC
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You can absolutely use divynicell in the stringers, especially if you could get it in the full sheets. The cheapest place I found to purchase it cuts the 4'x8' sheets into 2'x4' sections to reduce shipping costs. You will just have to find a layup schedule that will compensate for the loss of strength the wood adds to the stiffness equation. Only problem in short is that it is a little more complicated to use and the expense is higher for marginal weight gains. Probably the largest advantage is being able to say its wood free. If a boat is built with wood taking into consideration how water would get to the wood (screw holes, permeation through the resin where water stands) and eliminating those paths of infiltration, a wood boat will last as long as a composite built boat.

There are also composite materials that can be used in the transom such as coosa bluewater 26. A great site with a lot of technical knowledge is boatdesign.net lots of builders on there versus some of us 1-off project guys.

Earlier I recommended researching vinylester resin. One thing to consider is that epoxy tends to be a better material to encapsulate wood to prevent water infiltration and rot. When you buy your fiberglass, make sure the resin you will use is compatible with that particular fabric. Polyester resin allows the most water intrusion over time and even it lasts multiple decades. I used epoxy and I like epoxy, to me it is more forgiving and CYA to make up for our rookie mistakes. It does cost more but others have had great success (like every successful large scale boat builder) using polyester and vinylester resins.
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Last edited by tartuffe; 07-13-2014 at 08:56 PM.
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