Quote:
Originally Posted by Liam
The transom curve is retained and you build the bracket to match the curve,or if you are having the bracket built for you the manufacturer will need a template.
I am not sure what power you currently have but if an I/O be aware that the area around the drive is actually flat and made up from seperate pieces of ply.
I just rebuilt the transom in my 73 I/O. The original transom was made from one sheet of 3/4 ply curved and then 2 layered pieces of 3/4 around the keyhole.I rebuilt mine with 2 layers of 1/2 inch for the full transom with 2 pieces of 1/2 and a pice of 3/4 around the keyhole. All the layers were brought together by sandwiching glass cloth between the layers,this allowed for the transition between the flat section and the curved area.
If you are planning on hanging a bracket then plan on making the new transom at least 3 layers of 3/4,and plan on cutting out the outer glass around the keyhole and rebuilding that area to follow the curve as you will not need a flat area if there is no outdrive to hang.
Hopefully this is clear,its kinda hard to describe in words.
You do however always work from the inside ,you need to leave the outer skin of the transom intact to keep the hull sides aligned
|
Liam
Its an outboard model, 1975. transom is curved besides where the original outboard would hang
I know its going to be a long pricy project. But the hull is free, and i really love the v20 hull