[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by tsubaki

Thanks FERM, the sensor I replaced is the one at the rear drivers side that disabled the temperature gauge when disconnected. The one at the thermostat housing initiated the electric fan and set off the check engine light when disconnected.
New radiator and no build up in the old one, replaced it anyway. The condenser does have a few flat fins and a fair amount of gravel lodged in it but I can see through a very high percentage of it to the radiator.
This animal has never lost coolant or gave any of the normal overheat indications except for the gauge.
I'm aware of the air blockage especially on the ones that have the funny looking tank. This one has the regular old overflow type.
My next thought was to replace the condenser, basically because of the elimination process order I've replaced prior. Then pull the head and replace the gasket if that don't help.
First I'm gonna do like spare suggested and see if I can determine if the gauge is close to correct.
Keep throwing this stuff this way please!

I would start by going to Chrysler and buying BOTH the coolant temp sensor(one in the t-stat housing), and the sending unit(one in the rear of the head). Eliminate those two from the equation. I cannot stress enough to not use aftermarket parts for the electrical if you don't want to deal with grief just like this. And if there is any debris to speak of in the condenser, it will run hot. Also put in a factory OEM t-stat from Chrysler while you are doign the CTS and sender. It will be a hotter t-stat, but they work much better. I've had alot of problems with aftermnarkets here lately hanging until 225-230 before they open, and then plummet down and work like they are supposed to.