Quote:
Originally Posted by chackett
Hi all,
My dad and I have a 1988 20' Fisherman that we use all the time. We used to have it up here in Atlanta on Lanier and go striper fishing all the time. He moved to Bluffton SC a number of years ago and he took the boat down there with him.
Seems recently we've been having some trouble with the engine and it's been suggested by a couple shops that we probably need to replace the fuel tank.
Based on what I've read here and in other forums, seems tank corrosion isn't an uncommon issue, so I suppose a tank replacement job is in my future.
Since I have to travel down there to do this job, I'm really trying to get as much information as I can before I trek down there. I'd like to make as few trips as possible.
Can anyone recommend a replacement tank for this hull? I'd love to order it ahead of time and bring it with me. So far the only answers I've been able to get is "You'll have to remove the tank and order a replacement based on the measurements of the existing tank." Surely I'm not the first person to take this tank out and order a replacement. Obviously if I can't figure it out before I go, I'll take out the old tank, measure it and try and order a replacement.
So can anyone point me toward a replacement tank I can order and have shipped down there?
Also, I'm wide open to suggestions, tips, tricks, warnings or advice on this job. Like I said, I've never done this kind of hull job before, anything you can teach me, I'm ready to listen. My main concerns are 1. Ordering the right replacement tank .. 2. Foam. Several folks have indicated removing the foam is a serious hassle. 3. Re-installation .. if I don't re-foam, how are others securing the new tank?
Anyway, just looking for some advice!
Thanks all,
Chris
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Chris...the problem is, no one can be sure the exact same tank is used for the same hull year to year...should be, but not guaranteed....anyway, I have an 87 fisherman...the tank was foamed in, right to the bottom of the hull....and it pitted from the outside and built up calcification, for better choice of terms, from the inside, plus the cleansing of the varnish from years gone by that stuck to the insides of the tank....clogged my Racors at the end almost every trip....time to pull the tank.....you will need to unbolt the console and lay it to the side...then cut the foam around the tank with a long blade sawzall and clean out as much as possible before even thinking about pulling....then set up a come a long over the tank with big lumber spanning the gunwales...hook up around the fill neck and GENTLY pull up....it will let loose SLOWLY at first. then come quickly....but wear face protection in case the cable/chain lets loose, becaue it can injure you really quick....the foam holds very well....then lets go quick
Once out, you gotta grind.sand out the entire area for future bonding, be it glass to glass or foam to glass.....the old problem with foaming is that it was foamed and surrounded the tank like a moat....so moisture was trapped on top and wiggles its way to the sides between the tank and the foam....if you prep the tank, coal tar epoxy the tank...mechanically attach the tank to the stringers by having tabs with holes welded in when making the tank....then when suspended, foam it in..completely....cut the foam level with the top, actually beveling it away...then glassing that over...no water can sit on top of the tank....and it won't corrode the tank.....the compartment drain will be on top, not on the bottom as before...level with the foam.....keep water from setting against the tank/foam, and it will remain dry and resistant to corrosion...you can also go the way of setting in a couple of support stringers with glass, for the tank to sit on....then leaving space aroung the tank for aeration/drying....it becomes a personal choice at that point...