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Unread 10-11-2011, 07:49 AM
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RidgeRunner RidgeRunner is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lakeland, Fl
Posts: 2,526
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Full floating stringers is another method of building Reel. Cut some wood spacers, place under your stringers and tab them into place with some cloth wet out about every foot or so. Let it kick, remove the wedges, touch sand and lay the glass to it. Anywhere the plywood stringer comes in contact with the hull is a potential hard spot. I don't like the void it leaves under the stringer but I would consider this route if the boat wasn't getting any foam flotation, just install the limber holes. I would also coat the stringers with resin just in case water finds its way into the void. Filleting is the same procedure and would need to be done after tabbing.
By bedding, you are putting a small flexible barrier under the plywood stringers. You can use small wood spacers here too to ensure no plywood is contacting the hull. I like it because it fills voids where the stringers aren't conforming to the hull 100%, and it holds the stringers firmly in place. The layer(s) of glass you put over the stringers overlaps onto the hull and distributes the load.
If the plywood stringer is flying in close formation with the hull but only touching the hull in one or two spot 2" long, after glassing it in place the plywood can actually be pressured up against the hull bottom due to shrinkage of the resin. Some small boats have obvious hard spots just looking at the wavy gelcoat but are perfectly safe for what they were intended to do. Hard spots tend to spider crack gelcoat before catastrophic failure and stand as the main reason I don't like bottom paint.(hiding agent)
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