Man you have come a long way fast.
I used the VE for all my repairs back in 1998. Working in 100 degree heat it is very challenging to get the correct amount of MEKP hardener added to the resin to give yourself the proper working time. I tossed a lot of resin than kicked in the bucket. That ain't cheap. I have tried epoxy since then and liked it. Downside, some of the bi-axial and tri-axial fiberglass fabrics wet out better with VE. Ask the sales rep. they can help there. You can use epoxy over PE or VE but you cannot get the VE or PE to bond properly to epoxy.
Your floor, I would cut out and prep (grind) the area that needs new coring from the bottom side, trial fit a new piece then glue it in place with some slightly thickened epoxy/resin, let it kick, grind anything that looks to be too high or shiny with some 40 grit then put some type of fiberglass over the entire repair with 4" +/- overlap.
The mud they used to bond the liner to the stringers needs to come off. It looks like nearly all the putty stuck to the stringers on yours too. 5200 will not work to bond the two back together IMO. It will have a tendency to sag. Spare gave you a link to the stuff Wellcraft used.
If you are going the T-top route, what will you do with the rodholders built onto the sides of the console? I discovered them to be in the way of mounting the top on mine.
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