Quote:
Originally Posted by reelapeelin
That'll certainly work as far as draining each at the same rate...sounds like a good idea, as long as you can deal w/all the crud that sinks to the bottom of the tank(including water)...aren't conventional fuel pick-ups mounted just above the tank bottom?
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You're right on the money Reelapeelin. Fuel pick-ups are typically mounted an inch or two above the bottom, and some of them even have a screen over them just to avoid the crud, water, etc that can accumulate in the bottom.
My answer to you would be to follow the leader. Use the factory line from the tank to your engine that is already above the bottom level, and when you plumb the tanks for the cross connect mount the new lines about an inch or so above the bottom, for the same reasons already discussed. Take extra care to make sure the new lines don't leak where you insert them into the tanks. As a matter of fact, I'd probably put in a JIC (Joint Industrial Council) 37 degree flare fitting at each tank so that I could remove or replace the line as necessary. Use a 37 degree flare instead of the normal 45 degree so there is less chance of leakage. In fact, I'd even be tempted to make a double flair in the line, such as is used in brake lines, just for the additional safety it provides.
Note* Most flare tools are set up to make 45 degree flares for fuel lines and household applications but a 37 degree flare is the proper angle for AN (Army-Navy)automotive fittings. Those 8 degrees can be the difference between a dangerous leak and a perfect seal.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer
1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer
1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer
All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango.
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